Saying Goodbye to Italy

As the sun began its gentle ascent over the horizon, we awoke to the bittersweet realization that today marked the end of our extraordinary ten-day journey in Italy. Nestled within the opulent embrace of a five-star resort on the southern tip of Sicily, our perch atop a rugged cliff provided an awe-inspiring panorama of the boundless sea. 

Our day commenced with a private boating tour that was met with significant anticipation. The vessel, a small private vessel of customization and simplicity, bobbed gracefully through the azure waters as we made our way across the port. Our charismatic captain, a veritable maestro of the sea, regaled us with tales of ancient Syracuse, weaving history into the very fabric of the present moment. And, as we were informed, he had recently learned English only 9 months prior!   

Stopping at a private little cove encased by sedimentary stone cliffs worn down by millennia of lapping waters we were invited to swim. We descended into the warm, crystalline waters. It was as if time stood still, and we were suspended in a moment of pure bliss. The gentle lapping of the waves cradled us as we soaked up the Italian sun.     

As the morning sun reached its zenith, we ventured into the mysterious sea caves that dotted the coastline. Nature's handiwork was on full display, the interplay of light and shadow creating a unique canvas.  

During this excursion our captain unveiled bottles of the finest wine and Prosecco, a toast to the indelible moments we had shared. Each sip was a tribute to the beauty of this land, its history, and the connections forged amidst its splendor. 

After bidding adieu to our seafaring sanctuary, we sought solace on the sun-drenched beaches and beside the opulent pools. Time, quiet welcomely, seemed to stretch languidly, allowing us to savor every fleeting moment with pure relaxation. 

As the day waned, we retreated to a hot tub perched on the very edge of the cliff. From this vantage point, we watched a sunset that painted the horizon in hues of subtle yellows due to the smoke from the nearby, but unseen wildfires. 

Our evening culminated in a sumptuous dinner, a feast that celebrated the flavors of Sicily. Each dish was a testament to the culinary prowess of this region, a fusion of tradition and innovation that left our taste buds in pure delight. A nearly perfect day only marred by a raging case of food poisoning by yours’ truly at dinner.. it was short lived but intense leading to an early night of sleep. 

Our ten days in Italy had been nothing short of a dream, and this final day was the icing of the cake, a glorious conclusion to another spectacular trip. 

Travel Karma Strikes Again!

Emily, Mary Jo, and Sam got up VERY early to go to the famous thousand year old fish market in Venice. Leaving our hotel, we ambled across the famous Rialto bridge with dawn breaking gently over the canal. We had the city to ourselves with only the delivery boats stacked high on the grand canal and men delivering those boxes of supplies to the shops by hand carts. We saw all the fish mongers set up for  what would be a busy morning as they closed at 12 noon.  They were displaying octopus, scallops, clams, tuna,salmon, sardines, and literally any fish you could ever imagine! We bought pasta and risotto. Can't wait till we try it. Bon appetite.

We were on the home stretch of our vacation, Sicily. Only two quick domestic flights and we’d be sitting on a beach drinking cocktails. The early morning start was wonderfully simplistic. After the fish market we had a quick breakfast followed by a unique trip to the airport in a water taxi. These perfectly maintained lacquered wooden vessels were as sleek as they were powerful. We cruised through the narrow canals, upsetting early morning delivery boats and patrons on their relaxing morning walks.  The city was otherwise quiet and peacefully picturesque. After escaping the intra-city canals we emerged on to a ‘boating highway’ lanes in open water lined by aged and worn pilones signifying the various routes. The water taxies reved up their throttles and veered playfully in and out of each others’ wakes as we all raced towards the airport.  With frighteningly good skill our driver drifted into a loading dock to let us out into the airport. 

As we embarked on our journey from the romantic canals of Venice to the sun-soaked shores of Sicily, little did we know that our travel woes were just beginning. The day unfolded with a series of unfortunate events that left us exhausted and frustrated.

Our troubles began with unexpected delays that threatened to unravel our carefully planned itinerary. Each passing minute brought us closer to missing crucial connections and losing our precious luggage. The tension in the air was palpable. 

To make matters worse, news of a fire on the runway at Catania airport forced an abrupt rerouting. We found ourselves diverted to a distant airport, where we sat on the tarmac, anxiously awaiting clearance to return. Two long hours crawled by before we were finally on our way back to Catania.

Throughout this ordeal, our only sustenance was a meager 4 ounces of water. Thirst gnawed at us, a constant reminder of the challenges we faced. We tried to remain patient, but the exhaustion was setting in.

In the end, our journey that was meant to take a mere few hours stretched into an agonizing 11-hour ordeal. It was a test of patience and resilience, leaving us yearning for the tranquility of our destination. Despite the setbacks, we pressed on, determined to find solace in the warm embrace of Sicily's shores.

Our hotel, despite arriving at night was spectacular. A true heavenly resort perched on cliffs overlooking the ocean. Once we arrived we stumbled out of the van exhausted , hungry, and weary. Emily started marching towards checkin with a fierce determination only to be held up as Mary Jo and Sam decided to chat up the driver (who they ignored for the previous hour) about rocks. Rocks. Emily, in her primal ‘need food’ state was implicitly/explicitly sending me signals that unless she was fed someone was going to die. So we wrapped up our enthusiastic conversation about rocks and headed to the front desk. The concierge women gave us all a half glance and stated, “why don’t you go straight to the restaurant and we can handle checkin late..?”. She escorted us to the restaurant while I silently mouthed “thank you”. Once we had some good food and wine in our bellies we were laughing again at the whole ordeal. We can’t wait for tomorrow! 

Traversing Canals and Culinary Delights

The day started off earlier than usual. We were taking the train again from Florence to Venice. With great trepidation we re-entered the cursed train station that had given us such a sour taste prior.  With a pleasant surprise, the train arrived on time, we boarded it without difficulty, and arrived without any issues… FINALLY! Some of that Eck karma.  Stepping out of the train station, we opted for the quintessential Venetian experience – a water taxi.  With the wind in our hair and the lapping of the canal against the sides of the various boats all vying for a customer, we were swiftly transported into a world of architectural marvels rising gracefully from the water. 

The city of waterways and enchanting alleyways, beckoned us with its timeless allure.  Our guide, Diana, a native Venetian with a passion for her city, was our key to unlocking the secrets of this magical place.   Stepping onto the cobbled streets, we found ourselves in a labyrinth of alleys and passages, each turn revealing a new piece of the city’s rich topography. Diana’s intimate knowledge of these hidden gems guided us through, making us feel like locals in a city that must thrive on its mysteries. 

We walked and stood for hours as Diana both demonstrated and explained the rich history of her city. Her thick accent occasionally cut by gondoliers shouting and singing to each other as they skillfully navigated the waters beneath the bridges we crossed.  Diana shared tales of Venetian history, painting vivid pictures of grandeur, intrigue, and the ebb and flow of this unique city. 

My favorite encounter with the heart of Venice was through the languid, rhythmic sways of our gondola ride. Our gondolier did sing to us for a short portion of the trip.  As we glided through narrow canals, we marveled at the ancient buildings, each one seemingly dipped in hues of soft yellows and rustic reds, reflecting the setting sun. 

No exploration of Venice would be complete without indulging in its culinary treasures. We ventured into tucked-away bars, where rickety furniture scraped against aged cobble stone and multilingual conversations washed over us like babbling brooks. Diana introduced us to the world of chinchetti – delectable bite-sized treats that embodied the essence of Venetian cuisine.  From creamy bacalà mantecato to succulent sarde in saor, each morsel was an explosion of flavors, a testament to the city’s maritime heritage. Here, we sipped on spritz – the quintessential Venetian aperitif – a vibrant concoction that refreshed our palates, perfectly balancing bitter and sweet.

Dessert was a pleasurable affair, with Venetian pastries that seemed almost too beautiful to devour. Our guide recommended a true Venetian almond flavored dessert. I didn’t get the name but it was a type of cookie with almond flour, jam, and filling. The cheek puckering sweetness paired with with the harsh bitterness of our much needed coffees formed a perfect gustatory union. 

As we bid farewell to Diana, it was with a bittersweet pang, knowing that this day of enchantment would forever hold a special place in our hearts. The city’s timeless allure, combined with Diana’s expert guidance, had woven an indelible memory that would stay with us, a cherished tale to share with our friends and family. Venice, with its canals and chinchetti, had given us a lasting impression that we will not soon forget. 

As twilight settled over Venice, we concluded our day of exploration, weaving through narrow alleys and admiring ancient facades. At the Grand Canal's edge, we found an enchanting spot, where a quaint table awaited us. A candle's flickering flame danced with the gentle ripples, creating an intimate atmosphere. The aroma of freshly baked bread mingled with the scent of aged wine, enticing our senses. Sipping from the bottle (unfortunately not the best wine) we laughed and recounted the day. 

Action packed day in Florence

Under the early morning sky of Florence, we embarked on a journey guided by the vivacious Antonella, our guide for the day. With infectious enthusiasm, she led us through the cobbled streets, unraveling the city’s tapestry of history. Morning light danced on ancient facades as we wound our way through alleyways steeped in rich history.

Antonella’s stories breathed life into every facade, her passion for the city contagious. Her voice rang out loudly and with purpose as we traversed the city showering us with unique tidbits of history.  We walked for hours enthralled in her lessons of the past. Antonella, a fountain of knowledge, worked her magic to secure coveted museum tickets, granting us passage into many sold out adventures. Finally she left us to our own devices at the entrance to the lively open market. 

Amidst the clamor of the open market, we were embraced by a sensory whirlwind. Vivid stalls overflowed with Tuscan bounty - plump tomatoes, aromatic herbs, and wheels of Parmesan cheese.  The aroma of freshly baked bread mingled with the earthy notes of truffles, creating a symphony for the senses.

Lunch unfolded in a charming family style seating area, where we indulged in delicate ravioli, each morsel a burst of flavor. The wine, a bright and light Pinot Grigio, danced on our tongues, harmonizing with the rich pasta sauces. Laughter and chatter filled the air, blending seamlessly with the hustle and bustle of the market. We walked on through the lively markedly space amidst vibrant and vivacious venders. 

Cafés lined the streets, beckoning with the promise of respite.  We savored espressos and lingered over scoops of gelato, the taste of creamy pistachio and sweet strawberry brightening our palates.

Next, the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore loomed before us, its marble facade a testament to human ingenuity and devotion.     We ascended its grandeur, absorbing the hallowed aura within. Light streamed through stained glass, painting the interior with a kaleidoscope of colors, while soaked in the revery of the sacred space. 

As the sun began its descent, we ascended to the Piazzale Michelangelo, perched high above the city. With anticipation, we settled into perfect seats, a glass of Tuscan rosé cradled in our hands.  The panorama before us was nothing short of enchanting – Florence spread like a Renaissance masterpiece, its domes and towers silhouetted against the sky.

As evening draped the city in an afternoon embrace, we made our way back down, navigating the picturesque streets and crossing the iconic Ponte Vecchio, with its gleaming stalls of gold shining brightly through the windows of eager shopkeepers.  We reached our sanctuary of a hotel for a midafternoon siesta before heading off to see the statue of David. 

Entering the Accademia Gallery after a blistering pace through the city was a mesmerizing experience.  The majestic statue of David commanded attention, its intricate details and towering presence left us awestruck. Michelangelo's genius was palpable in every chiseled contour. Other works adorned the space, each a testament to the Michelangelo’s unparalleled mastery. It was a profound encounter.

Tonight we planned on a 5 star meal..  Locale Firenze offered us such an extraordinary culinary journey. The nine-course extravaganza blended diverse flavors seamlessly, creating a pan-cultural symphony on our palates. The sommelier's selections were uncannily spot-on, enhancing each dish.   Meeting the chef was a highlight; their passion for gastronomy was pervasive. Towards the end of the meal the server kept coming out with “treats” from the kitchen including a flash frozen meringue that allows the diner to blow smoke while eating (Mary Jo enjoyed the wine pairings, what her attempt to blow smoke…).  As the final course concluded, the entire staff gathered for a memorable end-of-meal shot, sealing a night of unparalleled gastronomic delight. (I’ll write a review soon)

Finally, we returned to our hotel, the echoes of Florence’s history and splendor reverberating in our hearts. The day had been a symphony of art, cuisine, and breathtaking vistas, each moment etching itself into our souls as a testament to the enduring magic of one of my all time favorite cities.