Action packed day in Florence

Under the early morning sky of Florence, we embarked on a journey guided by the vivacious Antonella, our guide for the day. With infectious enthusiasm, she led us through the cobbled streets, unraveling the city’s tapestry of history. Morning light danced on ancient facades as we wound our way through alleyways steeped in rich history.

Antonella’s stories breathed life into every facade, her passion for the city contagious. Her voice rang out loudly and with purpose as we traversed the city showering us with unique tidbits of history.  We walked for hours enthralled in her lessons of the past. Antonella, a fountain of knowledge, worked her magic to secure coveted museum tickets, granting us passage into many sold out adventures. Finally she left us to our own devices at the entrance to the lively open market. 

Amidst the clamor of the open market, we were embraced by a sensory whirlwind. Vivid stalls overflowed with Tuscan bounty - plump tomatoes, aromatic herbs, and wheels of Parmesan cheese.  The aroma of freshly baked bread mingled with the earthy notes of truffles, creating a symphony for the senses.

Lunch unfolded in a charming family style seating area, where we indulged in delicate ravioli, each morsel a burst of flavor. The wine, a bright and light Pinot Grigio, danced on our tongues, harmonizing with the rich pasta sauces. Laughter and chatter filled the air, blending seamlessly with the hustle and bustle of the market. We walked on through the lively markedly space amidst vibrant and vivacious venders. 

Cafés lined the streets, beckoning with the promise of respite.  We savored espressos and lingered over scoops of gelato, the taste of creamy pistachio and sweet strawberry brightening our palates.

Next, the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore loomed before us, its marble facade a testament to human ingenuity and devotion.     We ascended its grandeur, absorbing the hallowed aura within. Light streamed through stained glass, painting the interior with a kaleidoscope of colors, while soaked in the revery of the sacred space. 

As the sun began its descent, we ascended to the Piazzale Michelangelo, perched high above the city. With anticipation, we settled into perfect seats, a glass of Tuscan rosé cradled in our hands.  The panorama before us was nothing short of enchanting – Florence spread like a Renaissance masterpiece, its domes and towers silhouetted against the sky.

As evening draped the city in an afternoon embrace, we made our way back down, navigating the picturesque streets and crossing the iconic Ponte Vecchio, with its gleaming stalls of gold shining brightly through the windows of eager shopkeepers.  We reached our sanctuary of a hotel for a midafternoon siesta before heading off to see the statue of David. 

Entering the Accademia Gallery after a blistering pace through the city was a mesmerizing experience.  The majestic statue of David commanded attention, its intricate details and towering presence left us awestruck. Michelangelo's genius was palpable in every chiseled contour. Other works adorned the space, each a testament to the Michelangelo’s unparalleled mastery. It was a profound encounter.

Tonight we planned on a 5 star meal..  Locale Firenze offered us such an extraordinary culinary journey. The nine-course extravaganza blended diverse flavors seamlessly, creating a pan-cultural symphony on our palates. The sommelier's selections were uncannily spot-on, enhancing each dish.   Meeting the chef was a highlight; their passion for gastronomy was pervasive. Towards the end of the meal the server kept coming out with “treats” from the kitchen including a flash frozen meringue that allows the diner to blow smoke while eating (Mary Jo enjoyed the wine pairings, what her attempt to blow smoke…).  As the final course concluded, the entire staff gathered for a memorable end-of-meal shot, sealing a night of unparalleled gastronomic delight. (I’ll write a review soon)

Finally, we returned to our hotel, the echoes of Florence’s history and splendor reverberating in our hearts. The day had been a symphony of art, cuisine, and breathtaking vistas, each moment etching itself into our souls as a testament to the enduring magic of one of my all time favorite cities. 

Wining in Florence

Today was going to be ‘Italian wine day’. The plan was to venture out into Tuscany for a sampling of Chianti and to learn about Italian wines. We met our rather silent driver, after a European breakfast, for our trip to the vineyard. The journey through the Tuscan countryside was a symphony of natural beauty. The narrow winding roads were lined with olive trees and vineyards.

Upon arrival, the vineyard emerged like a postcard come to life. Its rustic stone buildings, adorned with terracotta roofs, nestled into the rolling hills that stretched as far as the eye could see. 

 The sun bathed the landscape in a warm, golden glow, casting long shadows across the vines that climbed in orderly rows up the slopes. We toured the small private villa and were inundated with the smells of recently harvested grapes that carried into the barrel rooms.  

The terrace, a haven of tranquility, beckoned with elegantly set tables and comfortable chairs. From that vantage point, we were gifted with a panoramic view of the undulating vine-covered landscape.  The Chianti and Chianti Classico flowed like liquid rubies, poured into crystal glasses that caught the sunlight and danced with prismatic brilliance. 

With each sip, the flavors unfolded like a tale of the land, and was narrated by our guide Nico. The Chianti, robust and full-bodied, carried the essence of sun-soaked grapes, while the Chianti Classico, with its nuanced complexities, whispers secrets of ancient vines. We learned about the true meaning of Classico and how to identify these particular wines. I felt especially proud when my tasting knowledge was challenged and I correctly identified subtleties in two glasses of similar wine. This only encouraged our guide to continue pouring and even had us sample some of their grappa.  

Once we returned we set out for some food.  Lunch was a feast of fresh Italian cheeses, their creamy textures and piquant (yes, look it up) flavors a testament to local craftsmanship.  Paired with a velvety Chianti, it was a symphony of taste that lingered on the palate. Finishing our meal with recharging cups of coffee we set out. 

We strolled through the lively streets of Florence, where the hum of activity enveloped us. Antique shops beckoned Emily and her mother with treasures of bygone eras, each piece carrying its own whispered history.    

As the day waned, we found ourselves in a charming wine shop, its shelves adorned with carefully curated bottles. The sommelier guided us through a tasting, each sip revealing the artistry of Tuscan winemaking. The tiny shop was awash with laughter and clinking glasses from our table.   We swaggered back to our hotel for a much needed siesta before dinner. 

We arose from our siesta in anticipation of our Florentine steak dinner (Apparently Florence is famous for their steaks). We all dressed up a touch and had pre-dinner cocktails on a ridiculous rooftop bar with views of the river, municipal clock tower, and the largest dome in Florence all highlighted at night by spotlights.  Our concierge booked us reservations at a top steak house.  We strolled towards the restaurant recounting tales of folly under a star-lit sky and surround by warm summer humidity. The restaurant was another hole-in-the-wall but famous at the same time? It was serviced by crusty waitresses and exhausted chefs. But the walls were lined by photos of famous patrons and wines of all kinds. The special was Florentine steak. We wanted the ‘1 kg for two’ serving but our waitress barked at us that 2 kg was perfect for 4 people… we begrudgingly complied and we were less then shocked at the monsterous amount of meat that was presented to us.  A giant double 70 oz T-bone steak with a mountain of fried potatoes and a caldron of beans. It took two people to carry… we did our best (which felt pathetic) but we were woefully overwhelmed. Throwing down our utensils in defeat we pondered our cardiac arteries and life expectancies while shamefully comparing our table to others. Fortunately after taking inventory of the surrounding patrons we were not the only suckers in the restaurant. With nods of acknowledgment from our co-diners we felt minimally vindicated.  It still haunts me how much meat is likely wasted in that restaurant every night.  We finished our wines and waddled out of the restaurant into the warm evening air sweating out the shameful amount of meat we ingested. I’m not sure how we made it back but we all crashed hard. 

Roman Ruins

Again, after a solid night of sleep we awoke to a terrace breakfast under blue skies. Today’s agenda was to explore the Roman forum  (a massive area of uncovered ruins) and the grand Colosseum. We met up with another guide, also named Christina, who was just overflowing with historical facts and excitement over the ruins. These millennia-old ruins seemed to sprout up like weeds between the modern day buildings. 

Massive structures being unearthed every year and with great care to restore them to their former glory. We ambled through old Roman markets, political amphitheaters, and an average neighborhood complete with the foundations of lower class houses. It seemed like a massive graveyard of marble, brick, and stone.  Christina showed us overlay pictures of the landscape so we could further appreciate what Ancient Rome looked like when the ruins were intact.  Like sedimentary rocks there was history piled over and over on various sites. 

Visiting the Colosseum in Rome was an awe-inspiring experience. The colossal amphitheater, built in AD 70-80, stood as an enduring testament to ancient engineering prowess. Its grandeur evoked a sense of wonder, with colossal arches and weathered stone bearing witness to centuries of history.  As we stepped inside, we were transported back in time, imagining the roars of spectators and the epic battles that once unfolded in the arena. The atmosphere was palpable, a blend of reverence and excitement.  The sheer scale of the structure was humbling, and as we strolled through its echoing corridors, we couldn’t help but feel a profound connection to the past. 

Three and a half hours later we returned to our hotel to grab a quick bite before we set off for the train to Florence. We had pizza and wine on a rooftop and recounted our amazing visit to the colosseum. One last time our Italian stallion driver Mateo picked us up from the hotel and took us to the vibrant Rome train terminal. It was bustling with travelers darting in all directions. We got there 1 hour early and were anxiously awaiting our train to be assigned a platform.  There was more chaos than usual because a man had thrown himself on the tracks and died, this delayed nearly every train in and out of Rome. Our train was delayed by 50 minutes. So the Ecks and the Rosenfelds sat on the ground surrounded by our luggage and waited for our train.  More and more people filled the giant station and all of a sudden our train fell off the departure board!! Panicked, I rushed to the help desk where a throng of angry passengers had already collected. Our collaborator (trip manager) was… less than helpful. While I waited in the ever growing crowd of stranded passengers I lamented with several of them who had had the same experience. Finally I reached the front where frantic attendants were rapidly rebooking any and everyone on the VERY next trains. Sprinting back to our little encampment we gathered our gear and ran for the next departing train. What a rush, only to then sit on the train which was now delayed 50 minutes… the Rosenfeld travel luck struck again! But the fun didn’t stop there. When we arrived there was such a cluster of disrupted travelers that the car services were overwhelmed and we didn’t have anyone to pick us up. Our coordinator advised that we try to get a taxi and when we rounded the corner of the station there was a taxi line nearly a half mile long!!  Exasperated, I let Emily ‘talk’ to our coordinator to help ‘resolve’ the travel issues.  Needless to say, we had a driver within 10 minutes. 

Oh Florence! This is one of my favorite cities and it did not disappoint as we drove through picturesque narrow streets leading to unimaginable Italian structures and hidden gems. This late, the streets were crowded with vendors, tourists, and anyone with a desire for adventure. People were everywhere! It felt like driving through a sea of energetic people. And our hotel…. Wow. A boutique hotel tucked in a narrow back alley next to a lively street where jazz musicians serenaded passersby. 

After a much needed shower we wondered out into the night life and got swept up by the crowds and flocked to open squares with lighted fountains and marble statues. It was dreamlike on the streets. I felt like I was walking on a movie set.  We settled in a little hole in the wall restaurant ‘Da Lino’ where yet another charismatic waiter served us homemade pastas with rabbit ragú and shaved truffles. We talked about wine and sampled some of there homemade cured meats. As our chairs began to grown beneath us we threw in the towel and push out plates away. Fully satisfied, we were set to leave but our waiter, charmed by our party, offered us some house made limoncello as a night cap. It was delicious. We floated back to our hotel and called it a night. Tomorrow we wine! 

When In Rome…

We almost did it. Siphoning off some of the Eck’s karma we nearly had a flawless flight to Italy. We arrived without delays or cancellations, the flights were comfortable, but our wine cases did not arrive… luckily our main bags did. Abandoning them to the fates (our collaborators) we drove through the city at night wrapping around the lit up Colosseum, under beautiful Mediterranean pines, and weaved through the throngs of dinner seeking pedestrians. Our hotel was quaint and in a narrow Italian street lined with cafes and outdoor restaurants. After a much appreciated shower we meandered to the nearest outdoor restaurant and sat on the sidewalk under a canvas of lights and plants. The air was warm and welcoming and our waiter was a character, winking and smiling as he touted the evening’s delicacies.  We feasted on fresh buffalo mozzarella, silky prosciutto, and various pastas shared around the table.  All of this while sipping on an earthy Sangiovese wine.  The evening was made all the better when Mary Jo went to offer up a gnocchi and in a skillful accident dropped it right into my wine glass. Wr all laughed loudly, scaring the neighboring tables. Swaying slightly from the amazing wine and also from the long travel we returned to our hotel for the night. 

After a deep night of sleep following 24 hours of travel we awoke to a rooftop breakfast under a warm summer rain overlooking the city. Sipping on cappuccinos and munching on warm croissants we planned the day. Our task for the day was to tour the Vatican museums, Sistine chapel, and St. Peter’s basilica.  Unfortunately the pope decided to use it in the morning thus tossing a holy wrench in our plans. Regardless, we met up with our hilariously flamboyant Italian driver who took us to the Vatican. As we drove past a line of people that was miles long, he laughed and told us how lucky we were that we had fast line tickets and a guide. 

We met Christina, our Vatican guide, who was amazing!! A beautifully short Italian woman who knew all the right spots to stand and how to cut across large crowds. She was knowledgeable and entertaining.  In the hot weather we crawled from magnificent rooms to even more opulent corridors. The ancient art and marble carvings inundated us at each turn.  Walking where famous artists and historical figures once roamed left us feeling inspired as we toured the popes’ private offices painted by Rafael and stood under Michelangelo’s depiction of genesis in the Sistine Chapel.  Through the smells of sweaty tourists we could catch wafts of ancient plaster and paints. Even the floors were ornately designed and demonstrated the wear of centuries of millions of visitors.  It was surreal. The detail and durability of these massive works of art were hard to comprehend. After a mind bending and neck straining stent in the chapel we finally made our way out of the Vatican. It was midday, hot, and we had walked for miles. We bid adieu to Christina and headed off for a midafternoon lunch along a square surrounding eloquent fountains.  We sipped chilled Pinot Grigio, enjoyed flavorful pasta, and capped our little siesta with some coffee before setting out on a long stroll of the city.

Our first stop was the Pantheon. This is the largest unreinforced cement dome in the world. We just happened upon it while searching for gelato. We waited in line for access and nearly missed getting in as they cut off the line right in front of us to make way for a Saturday mass. I sweet talked the guard into letting just 4 more in and we were the last ones to have access to the giant relic. Emily and her parents enjoyed gelato while we waited in the sun.  The inside of the pantheon was impressive. Massive and ancient columns and the dome did not disappoint. The magnificence of roman architecture at its finest. 

After we left the pantheon we walked towards St. Peter’s basilica, now this was truly jaw dropping. After waiting in a line that wrapped around the impressive St. Peter’s square where the pope does mass with a giant Egyptian obelisk in the center, we entered the church of all churches. Every square inch of this place radiated power, wealth, and opulence. Gargantuan pillars held up heavily ornate fresco ceilings, and lined massive alters. It was by far one of the most impressive man made places I’ve ever visited. There was a small sermon at the head of the church with a choir echoing throughout the cavernous corridors while tourists meandered amongst gold ladened alters and huge marbles statues.  It. Was. Too. Much.  Dazed, we wondered out and fell into a taxi back to our hotel. Delirious with exhaustion we napped until our 10 pm dinner. 

Tonight we dined at a Michelin recognized restaurant and enjoyed some of Italy’s best wines while we slurped down pasta and seafood.  The dinner ran late into the evening with laughing and toasting to the good life. Finally we returned to our hotel to crash. Day 1 complete.