Mosques and More

Jet lag had us both up at 5am and hangry. Fortunately it was a brief transport to the airport where we were pleasantly surprised to find out that because of my travel status we had access to the British Airways first class lounge.. “pampered purely pampered”is how I’d describe our trip so far. Emily is loving this “birthday trip”. The remainder of the day was spent traveling. No real hiccups but our drive from the airport was 3hrs through the city in terrible traffic. Our hotel is 5 stars and we have a corner view of the city skyline and the Black Sea. After freshening up we headed out to a Turkish restaurant recommended by the concierge. 

Perched above the shimmering expanse of the Black Sea, this authentic Turkish restaurant in Istanbul was a culinary oasis. Its ambiance and panoramic views that mesmerize at sunset made it a special dining experience. The menu transported us through a tapestry of flavors, featuring an array of tantalizing appetizers bursting with authenticity.  But the true star is the perfectly cooked lamb shank, delicately enveloped in flaky philo dough, a symphony of tender meat and savory spices. Each bite is a journey into Turkish gastronomy, a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation against a backdrop of natural beauty. Then being overly traveled for the day we retired. 

The next morning we awoke refreshed and early due to the jet lag so we battled the morning laziness and went for a run in the spa. It was rough and sweaty but we were glad we did it!

This morning’s breakfast buffet was a feast for the senses. Eight sprawling stations awaited, each boasting an array of culinary delights.  From exotic fruits to artisanal cheeses, freshly baked pastries to made-to-order omelets, every craving found its match.  Amidst the opulent spread, impeccable service reigned supreme, ensuring a seamless and memorable dining experience. It was a symphony of flavors and hospitality, setting the perfect tone for a day of exploration in this enchanting city.

We met our first of many tour guides in the lobby, Perihan. She swept us away towards the city center in the warming morning air.  Our first stop was an ancient hippodrome with Egyptian obelisks. Then we visited the famous Blue Mosque.  Named for its unique blue quartz tiling. I am always impressed by mosques, massive edifices of faith guarded by tradition and with such plush carpeting.  Next we strolled through the sultan’s grand palace. 

In the heart of Istanbul lies the Sultan’s Palace/Museum, a majestic testament to centuries of royal splendor and cultural heritage.  As we stepped through the imperial gate, adorned with intricate carvings, we were transported back in time. The three entrance gates—imperial, welcoming, and happiness—ushered us into a world of grandeur and reverence with each more opulent than the previous. 

Inside, the treasury sparkled with priceless jewels and artifacts, each whispering tales of wealth and power. There was even a royal circumcision room! The ladies got a kick out of my reaction.  The armory displayed weapons of war, silent witnesses to the empire’s might. It also included a massive Ukrainian sword, greater than 6’ and weighing more than 100 lbs. 

Exploring further, we wandered through the dormitories, imagining life within the palace walls. But it was the relics that truly captivated us. Among them, the sight of a few strands from Prophet Muhammad’s beard, his sandals, and other sacred effects left us humbled, connecting us to centuries of faith and devotion. 

After a quick lunch we returned to visit our second mosque of the day. Our visit to Hagia Sophia was a blend of awe and amusement. Stepping into this massive architectural marvel, we were immediately struck by its grandeur and historical significance.

 We happened to visit during a prayer service which augmented the sacred aura. Prior to entering the mosque I had to purchase appropriate clothing to cover my knees. Donning the robe, which was comically too small, our guide nearly passed out from laughing so hard. It didn’t even cover past my shorts and was tight as a drum across my chest. I saw a smirk in every guards face as we passed. Despite the wardrobe malfunction, the experience was unforgettable.  From the intricate mosaics to the towering dome, every corner of Hagia Sophia exuded beauty and grace, leaving us in awe of its timeless charm and cultural importance. 

Our final stop of the day was the grand bazaar. We only walk a tiny portion but that was enough as we were constantly bombarded with overeager salesmen hawking their wears.  Our guide even brought us to a few.. ‘special shops’ were we received hard salesmanship. We nearly bought jewelry, Turkish rugs, and bags.  I was swindled into purchasing an overpriced scarf but we escaped with most of our money intact. Can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings… 

Greece/Turkey Trip Day One

Of course when we were preparing to leave the weather in Juneau was superb. Rick, Emily’s uncle flew up to watch and improve the house while we travel. In continuing with the spirit of our travel luck, both flights were delayed but not terribly so. Today is also Emily’s birthday! She is looking forward to a two week ‘birthday trip’. Traveling this far was smooth. I ‘tricked’ Emily into thinking I forgot to prepare for a long layover in London but I secretly planned on doing something in the West End with our 20 hour layover. I had her pick a show, Moulin Rouge! We landed, showered, and set out on the London Underground towards the city center.  After wondering around for a bit we happened upon a cute little restaurant near the Piccadilly Theater where we enjoyed, truffle and bruschetta ravioli, grilled leeks, and sautéed artichoke hearts. We then strode over to the theater.  

Entering Piccadilly Theater for Moulin Rouge was like stepping into a dreamland.  The ornate decor enveloped the audience, setting the stage for an unforgettable experience. As the curtains rose, the spectacle unfolded with mesmerizing performances, transporting everyone to the vibrant world of bohemian Paris. Each scene was a visual feast, every note a symphony of emotions.  The caterers provided culinary delights that tantalized the taste buds, adding another layer of sensory delight to the evening. From the elaborate costumes to the electrifying choreography, every detail was meticulously crafted, leaving an indelible mark on the soul. Moulin Rouge at Piccadilly Theater was pure magic. What a great first day! 

Saying Goodbye to Italy

As the sun began its gentle ascent over the horizon, we awoke to the bittersweet realization that today marked the end of our extraordinary ten-day journey in Italy. Nestled within the opulent embrace of a five-star resort on the southern tip of Sicily, our perch atop a rugged cliff provided an awe-inspiring panorama of the boundless sea. 

Our day commenced with a private boating tour that was met with significant anticipation. The vessel, a small private vessel of customization and simplicity, bobbed gracefully through the azure waters as we made our way across the port. Our charismatic captain, a veritable maestro of the sea, regaled us with tales of ancient Syracuse, weaving history into the very fabric of the present moment. And, as we were informed, he had recently learned English only 9 months prior!   

Stopping at a private little cove encased by sedimentary stone cliffs worn down by millennia of lapping waters we were invited to swim. We descended into the warm, crystalline waters. It was as if time stood still, and we were suspended in a moment of pure bliss. The gentle lapping of the waves cradled us as we soaked up the Italian sun.     

As the morning sun reached its zenith, we ventured into the mysterious sea caves that dotted the coastline. Nature's handiwork was on full display, the interplay of light and shadow creating a unique canvas.  

During this excursion our captain unveiled bottles of the finest wine and Prosecco, a toast to the indelible moments we had shared. Each sip was a tribute to the beauty of this land, its history, and the connections forged amidst its splendor. 

After bidding adieu to our seafaring sanctuary, we sought solace on the sun-drenched beaches and beside the opulent pools. Time, quiet welcomely, seemed to stretch languidly, allowing us to savor every fleeting moment with pure relaxation. 

As the day waned, we retreated to a hot tub perched on the very edge of the cliff. From this vantage point, we watched a sunset that painted the horizon in hues of subtle yellows due to the smoke from the nearby, but unseen wildfires. 

Our evening culminated in a sumptuous dinner, a feast that celebrated the flavors of Sicily. Each dish was a testament to the culinary prowess of this region, a fusion of tradition and innovation that left our taste buds in pure delight. A nearly perfect day only marred by a raging case of food poisoning by yours’ truly at dinner.. it was short lived but intense leading to an early night of sleep. 

Our ten days in Italy had been nothing short of a dream, and this final day was the icing of the cake, a glorious conclusion to another spectacular trip. 

Travel Karma Strikes Again!

Emily, Mary Jo, and Sam got up VERY early to go to the famous thousand year old fish market in Venice. Leaving our hotel, we ambled across the famous Rialto bridge with dawn breaking gently over the canal. We had the city to ourselves with only the delivery boats stacked high on the grand canal and men delivering those boxes of supplies to the shops by hand carts. We saw all the fish mongers set up for  what would be a busy morning as they closed at 12 noon.  They were displaying octopus, scallops, clams, tuna,salmon, sardines, and literally any fish you could ever imagine! We bought pasta and risotto. Can't wait till we try it. Bon appetite.

We were on the home stretch of our vacation, Sicily. Only two quick domestic flights and we’d be sitting on a beach drinking cocktails. The early morning start was wonderfully simplistic. After the fish market we had a quick breakfast followed by a unique trip to the airport in a water taxi. These perfectly maintained lacquered wooden vessels were as sleek as they were powerful. We cruised through the narrow canals, upsetting early morning delivery boats and patrons on their relaxing morning walks.  The city was otherwise quiet and peacefully picturesque. After escaping the intra-city canals we emerged on to a ‘boating highway’ lanes in open water lined by aged and worn pilones signifying the various routes. The water taxies reved up their throttles and veered playfully in and out of each others’ wakes as we all raced towards the airport.  With frighteningly good skill our driver drifted into a loading dock to let us out into the airport. 

As we embarked on our journey from the romantic canals of Venice to the sun-soaked shores of Sicily, little did we know that our travel woes were just beginning. The day unfolded with a series of unfortunate events that left us exhausted and frustrated.

Our troubles began with unexpected delays that threatened to unravel our carefully planned itinerary. Each passing minute brought us closer to missing crucial connections and losing our precious luggage. The tension in the air was palpable. 

To make matters worse, news of a fire on the runway at Catania airport forced an abrupt rerouting. We found ourselves diverted to a distant airport, where we sat on the tarmac, anxiously awaiting clearance to return. Two long hours crawled by before we were finally on our way back to Catania.

Throughout this ordeal, our only sustenance was a meager 4 ounces of water. Thirst gnawed at us, a constant reminder of the challenges we faced. We tried to remain patient, but the exhaustion was setting in.

In the end, our journey that was meant to take a mere few hours stretched into an agonizing 11-hour ordeal. It was a test of patience and resilience, leaving us yearning for the tranquility of our destination. Despite the setbacks, we pressed on, determined to find solace in the warm embrace of Sicily's shores.

Our hotel, despite arriving at night was spectacular. A true heavenly resort perched on cliffs overlooking the ocean. Once we arrived we stumbled out of the van exhausted , hungry, and weary. Emily started marching towards checkin with a fierce determination only to be held up as Mary Jo and Sam decided to chat up the driver (who they ignored for the previous hour) about rocks. Rocks. Emily, in her primal ‘need food’ state was implicitly/explicitly sending me signals that unless she was fed someone was going to die. So we wrapped up our enthusiastic conversation about rocks and headed to the front desk. The concierge women gave us all a half glance and stated, “why don’t you go straight to the restaurant and we can handle checkin late..?”. She escorted us to the restaurant while I silently mouthed “thank you”. Once we had some good food and wine in our bellies we were laughing again at the whole ordeal. We can’t wait for tomorrow! 

Traversing Canals and Culinary Delights

The day started off earlier than usual. We were taking the train again from Florence to Venice. With great trepidation we re-entered the cursed train station that had given us such a sour taste prior.  With a pleasant surprise, the train arrived on time, we boarded it without difficulty, and arrived without any issues… FINALLY! Some of that Eck karma.  Stepping out of the train station, we opted for the quintessential Venetian experience – a water taxi.  With the wind in our hair and the lapping of the canal against the sides of the various boats all vying for a customer, we were swiftly transported into a world of architectural marvels rising gracefully from the water. 

The city of waterways and enchanting alleyways, beckoned us with its timeless allure.  Our guide, Diana, a native Venetian with a passion for her city, was our key to unlocking the secrets of this magical place.   Stepping onto the cobbled streets, we found ourselves in a labyrinth of alleys and passages, each turn revealing a new piece of the city’s rich topography. Diana’s intimate knowledge of these hidden gems guided us through, making us feel like locals in a city that must thrive on its mysteries. 

We walked and stood for hours as Diana both demonstrated and explained the rich history of her city. Her thick accent occasionally cut by gondoliers shouting and singing to each other as they skillfully navigated the waters beneath the bridges we crossed.  Diana shared tales of Venetian history, painting vivid pictures of grandeur, intrigue, and the ebb and flow of this unique city. 

My favorite encounter with the heart of Venice was through the languid, rhythmic sways of our gondola ride. Our gondolier did sing to us for a short portion of the trip.  As we glided through narrow canals, we marveled at the ancient buildings, each one seemingly dipped in hues of soft yellows and rustic reds, reflecting the setting sun. 

No exploration of Venice would be complete without indulging in its culinary treasures. We ventured into tucked-away bars, where rickety furniture scraped against aged cobble stone and multilingual conversations washed over us like babbling brooks. Diana introduced us to the world of chinchetti – delectable bite-sized treats that embodied the essence of Venetian cuisine.  From creamy bacalà mantecato to succulent sarde in saor, each morsel was an explosion of flavors, a testament to the city’s maritime heritage. Here, we sipped on spritz – the quintessential Venetian aperitif – a vibrant concoction that refreshed our palates, perfectly balancing bitter and sweet.

Dessert was a pleasurable affair, with Venetian pastries that seemed almost too beautiful to devour. Our guide recommended a true Venetian almond flavored dessert. I didn’t get the name but it was a type of cookie with almond flour, jam, and filling. The cheek puckering sweetness paired with with the harsh bitterness of our much needed coffees formed a perfect gustatory union. 

As we bid farewell to Diana, it was with a bittersweet pang, knowing that this day of enchantment would forever hold a special place in our hearts. The city’s timeless allure, combined with Diana’s expert guidance, had woven an indelible memory that would stay with us, a cherished tale to share with our friends and family. Venice, with its canals and chinchetti, had given us a lasting impression that we will not soon forget. 

As twilight settled over Venice, we concluded our day of exploration, weaving through narrow alleys and admiring ancient facades. At the Grand Canal's edge, we found an enchanting spot, where a quaint table awaited us. A candle's flickering flame danced with the gentle ripples, creating an intimate atmosphere. The aroma of freshly baked bread mingled with the scent of aged wine, enticing our senses. Sipping from the bottle (unfortunately not the best wine) we laughed and recounted the day.