Machu Picchu (a world wonder)

Sorry if yesterday’s blog was a little haphazard but I may have been inebriated while writing it. But yesterday was such an amazing trip. Today we woke up at a decent hour in our suite to to sounds of birds and waterfalls. It was overcast with clouds rolling over and through the mountains, an unbelievably peaceful sight. After a savory breakfast we took a private car to the train station for our train/bus ride to Machu Picchu. We were received with warm welcomes from the elderly travelers (we being the youngest travelers on the train) that we had met the night before. The train ride was grandiose. A slow moving train weaving through a rich jungle filled valley encapsulated by staggering mountains that seemed to jut up out of the earth while clouds were cascading down them.  There were windows on the roof of the train that barely permitted us to see the precipitous summits looming above. After awhile we began to descend into the true jungle with its hanging vines, dense trees, and rain. All the while we sat warmly in the train sipping Peruvian coffee and enjoying local music. 

Once we arrived we were herded into a rickety bus that zigzagged up the mountainside hugging steep curves and inching around oncoming traffic. It was a truly ‘puckering’ experience. As we went higher and higher the clouds started to thicken causing some anxiety about not getting that ‘Macho Picchu postcard picture’. Our guide, Kathy was amazing and spoke great English. Right off the bat we had a small hike and came out on to the famous lookout with a picturesque view of the City of Clouds. It was exactly how I envisioned it, ancient ruins floating amongst sharp mountains bathed in rolling clouds.  It was quiet, as tourists finished their short climb and were awestruck into silence. I think we took a million photos but I made sure that we put the phones/cameras away and just stood there for a few minutes absorbing the mystical city.  I couldn’t believe our luck as we started to climb towards the city and heavy clouds blanketed the area. I felt bad for all those following us who would never get to see the whole city uncovered. For the next 3 hours we ventured throughout the city both upper and lower learning about the architecture and culture of the Incas.    Given the heavy fog, the ruins seemed to float solemnly in and out of existence while we clambered about. There were periods where the clouds would lift revealing an extensive valley 1,200 feet down and incredible mountain ranges in the backdrop. I think I wondered around with my mouth open the entire time. Pictures truly I not do that serene place justice.  The sheer magnitude of those mountains and valleys was simply humbling. We finished exploring and headed back off the mountain via another daredevil bus ride to the train station. The train ride was just as beautiful as before and we had an uneventful ride back to Cusco. However, our hotel had booked us reservations in advance at a restaurant that specializes in Coy (guiñe pig). So we went and sampled the small rodent/pet which had been roasting for over an hour and... tasted like chicken but much less meat.

Now exhausted, we are going to crash before the last leg of our trip, the beach!

Sacred Valley not hidden valley (like the ranch dressing)

Sadly, on this Rosenfeld vacation we started with yet another early morning. We were screwed because Emily still had significant work to do but we had no access because we didn’t bring computers. However, a very nice receptionist brought her personal computer to us at midnight so she can finish scheduling for all of her residents. We woke up to a very good breakfast buffet. We then joined our compatriots Jim and Karen for our guide to the sacred Valley. We piled into a very luxurious van and we met by a very eccentric tour guide. Weather was overcast and slightly cool which was perfect. We had our first stop at a llama/alpaca/guinea pig protective reserve. We learned the difference between llamas, alpacas, and guinea pigs.  We fed them and got great pictures. We didn’t have a long drive that eventually took us into the sacred Valley. This was a place very reminiscent of Yosemite  national Park. Except the mountains were much grander, the valley was much less lusher and the valley was significantly larger.   The valley itself sits surrounded by massive Andean mountains and is busting at the seams with lush greenery. With the overcast skies it looked like the misty fiords of Alaska. Overall it seem to be a short day however we stopped at Ollantaytambo. Now I have had an exciting year and I would say this is one of my top three places I’ve seen in my lifetime. This was the sacred Valley/3 valleys converging into one place which was an Incan stronghold. Again, the valley sites were reminiscent of the Everest skyline versus Yosemite all with ancient Incan artifacts, temples, buildings, and ruins strewn about.  We headed up the Incan stronghold which was anywhere between a 500 and 1000 foot climb.  This stronghold, carved into the mountain side facing two converging valleys with a third behind it, was a true showstopper. Massive stone pieces in excess of 80 tons carved with laser precision and fitted expertly together would baffle even the most notorious architects and engineers of today.  Not only was this ancient structure thousands of years old but we were permitted to climb all over it. With each step and bend revealing breathtaking views we had our full of excitement and adventure for the day.  We were then transported to our hotel. But by hotel, I mean, the best hotel we have ever stayed at. It is a 5 star Andean plantation where we were given the matrimonial sweet (ie the best room in the place). Just our room was a stand alone edifice with 2 fireplaces, hot tub out side, outdoor and indoor showers, claw tub, 5 rooms, personal heat for the king bed, and our own back porch/yard. Oh, and we have to take a golf cart to and from our place!  And that was just our room! The hotel is exquisite. Large fireplaces, couches everywhere, multiple stories, and staff that wait on us hand and foot. We started with a couples massage, then just missed feeding baby alpacas but made it to the pisco sour training were we met Fernando, a spectacular mixologist who proceeded to make us some of our lifetime best cocktails using such bar techniques as fizzing, cinnamon smoke infusions, passion fruit and dill concoctions. We were utterly swept off our feet and spent the better part of 2 hours chatting and drinking next to open fireplaces.  The worst part of the day is that after packing 48 lbs of clothes and shoes for all occasions Emily was stuck with hiking clothes for this hotel experience because for this portion of the trip we were mandated to bring a small overnight bag for which we were told we would be hiking and to wear layers.... needless to set the irony of a 5 star hotel after hauling 48 lbs of clothes around to be dressing in our hiking gear was not lost on us. 

At the end of our night we went to dinner. All afternoon whilst drinking and exploring we befriended most of the staff and were on a first name basis with the bartender. 

Our dinner experience was the best in Peru. We have eaten at many places but Casa Andina blows them all out of the water. For our dinner we arrived amidst Peruvian harp music to the best seats in the restaurant complete with a heart made of pedals on our table. We had a phenomenal team of waiters and staff who served us with impeccable precision and class. I have to give a shout out to the following; Abel, Wilco, Alejandrina, Ursula, Jaime, and Fronk, who made this one of our best dinners. And I cannot forget Fernando the exceptional bartender for I’m his unique creations. The courses were elegant, well thought out, and gustatory masterpieces.  Our dessert was made special for us lovers, a strawberry cheesecake in the shape of a heart and arrow. #restaurantreview

After dinner we were driven by golf cart to our abode were they had lit a fire and put out wine for us. The rest of the evening was history but I can’t wait for tomorrow!!

Cusco not couscous

It was an early morning which as we all know is not Emily’s favorite time of day. But she rose like a champ and we set out for the airport at 6am. My amazing Spanish helped us navigate the chaotic airport(though I’m sure Emily’s good looks and patient,” just tell him in English” helped too).  We landed in Cusco at more than 10,000 ft elevation and can feel it when going up stairs and hills.

The weather is perfect, sunny and warm but not overly so. Again, we had an easy reception with a sign and a warm greeting as they took us directly to our 4 star hotel. I am bragging a bit about the hotels only because up until this point in our lives we were hostel bound. But this chic hotel looks like a beautiful hotel with open center, fireplace, and lounge chairs. The rooms are lavish with personal notes, fruits, and other boutique amenities.

It was hard to leave the room. But with growling bellies we sought a Peruvian solutions and found a perfectly delicious one at the Inka Grill where we were treated as kings and queens to a montage of eclectic Peruvian specialties. I usually can describe the food better but I’m not quite sure what we ate, only that it was spectacular and we left contented. 

We met up with another couple at our hotel who were going on the same tour as us. I never caught their names so I’m going to just call them Jim and Karen because, well, they looked like a Jim and Karen. Anyways, these two hailed from North Carolina and were on a month long trip up the west coast of South American. They were pleasant and we continued our Cusco city tour learning about the turbulent history of the Spaniards desolating the Incas and building churches over their most sacred temples. However after a series of massive earthquakes the Incan foundations were revealed and this the incredible appreciation for a architectural marvel was born. The Incans would build LEGO-style and everything was set at angles. The distance between each laid stone was millimeters.

After learning about the Incans we next toured the largest basilica in South America. This place could only exist in the imaginations of fantasy writers. A great hall supported by massive columns sheltering solid gold and silver places of worship so intricate that one had trouble taking them in. This magical basilica feels ripped from the pages of J. R. R. Tolkien or George Martin.

  Our guides were very knowledgeable but we were lacking energy until we were advised to perchase coca hard candies. These little  adrenaline packed sweets perked us right up. With hearts pumping we continued our tour through 8 Incan sites and reached an altitude of 13,000 Ft.  One of the incan sites represented a large uterine for the rebirth of those who died to be born into a higher level. Needless to say Emily got her OBGYN on and we took gobs of pictures. At one point Emily asked me if I was excited to try coy (guiñe pig) tonight. I cheekily replied, “I’m coy-uiet excited”. Finally exhausted we returned to our hotel which was sporting a magnificent happy hour and two excitable musicians playing around a fire in the central court yard. Perfect pause to and otherwise adventurous day. Rough evening so we crashed. Guiñe pig for another day!

No lamas in Lima

Welp, today I woke up in Lima, Peru with my beautiful wife beside me. No, this wasn’t another drunken debacle like last time.... We had planned a crazy whirlwind trip through Peru given our insane schedules and Emily’s persistent residency internment. We landed last night at midnight and were met by a well drawn sign with our last name and a private driver to our hotel as we were offered waters in the stifling heat of Lima. This was a much different experience then most of my country arrivals, but I digress. Emily was sound asleep so I snuck out and walked several blocks in search of a coffee stand. It was an incredible morning. Lima is a metropolis of 9 million people and our hotel was positioned in the most modern district perched high above the ocean on precarious bluffs.

The streets were immaculate and brimming with morning walkers and joggers. It was not hot out but humid. I walked for about 10 blocks before I stumbled across a coffee shop(later to find out there were 4 coffee shops 1 block in the other direction). I was stoked to use my Spanish and chatted up the baristas. I returned with the coffee and woke up Emily who sipped happily as I pulled back the curtains bathing our room in sun light. There was a fog over the ocean which killed the view but we could still hear waves crashing and occasional shouting from surfers. We had a large breakfast and decided to go for a long walk through our neighborhood called Miraflores. We strolled along the bluff as the day started to heat up and more people filled the walkways. Our first stop was the Parque de Amor, where lover sit and taken in a huge sculpture of a couple kissing surrounded by broken tile mosaics.

We then turned away from the ocean and headed inland. As the city woke up the streets filled with honking cars, rumbling buses, and street venders. We wound our way through the hustle and bustle and arrived at Parque Kennedy. This was a beautifully floral park filled with lounging cats, ancient trees, and street artists hawking their goods while surrounded by rumbling motorways.

The churches were elegantly decorated but closed. We continued up the main thorough ways until we reached Huaca Pucllana. This was a slightly unimpressive huge pile of rocks and bricks which we later found out was the remains of an ancient temple from 400 AD. It did take up 8 city blocks in the middle of a residential neighborhood. We hurried back to our hotel for our PRIVATE one on one city tour.

 Edwin a smartly dressed Peruvian in his mid 20s met us smiling and we jumped into our own vehicle to set out around the city. We cruised around our previously mention stomping grounds at first but then set off for Lima’s city center. The whole ride Edwin pointed out beautiful colonial and modern buildings. We disembarked at the presidential palace and arrived at the Basílica de San Francisco de Lima. Now I will admit I am not much of a church tour fan but this was jaw dropping. This “church” used to house 500 priests. The shear ornate decor was interesting but then to see how this antique building had survived earthquakes, fires, and plundering was impressive. The had attempted to restore several portions of the complex but everywhere they removed white paint they came across covered murals. So throughout the building there were patches of mural indiscriminately spaced over the white walls. The entire inner building used cedar wood. Then there was the catacombs. Emily’s favorite part. We walk hunched over through musty tunnels lined with bones and skulls. We explored the underbelly of the church staring a human remains arranged in geometric patterns occasionally passing under a grate were we could look up into the pews of the cathedral above us. And, the church IS STILL ACTIVE!! People go to mass barely above a massive 25,000 person crypt! Our guide was awesome, touching everything and showing us secret places too. From there we went to the most beautiful museum, Museo Larco.

A wealthy farmer turned collector/archeologist who turned his mansion into one of the worlds premier museums. Our one on one guide took us through the museum room by room and gave us a spectacular history. Finally we returned to our hotel and set out for dinner. To our dismay, it was national Election Day = la ley seca (the dry law), no booze to be sold or consumed all day! It was with heavy livers that we enjoyed a nice Peruvian dinner of potatoes, carne, and rice. We sampled some ceviche but we concluded that Columbia still holds the title. After a 14 hour we have returned to rest up for tomorrow’s adventure. Stay tuned.