The streets were immaculate and brimming with morning walkers and joggers. It was not hot out but humid. I walked for about 10 blocks before I stumbled across a coffee shop(later to find out there were 4 coffee shops 1 block in the other direction). I was stoked to use my Spanish and chatted up the baristas. I returned with the coffee and woke up Emily who sipped happily as I pulled back the curtains bathing our room in sun light. There was a fog over the ocean which killed the view but we could still hear waves crashing and occasional shouting from surfers. We had a large breakfast and decided to go for a long walk through our neighborhood called Miraflores. We strolled along the bluff as the day started to heat up and more people filled the walkways. Our first stop was the Parque de Amor, where lover sit and taken in a huge sculpture of a couple kissing surrounded by broken tile mosaics.
We then turned away from the ocean and headed inland. As the city woke up the streets filled with honking cars, rumbling buses, and street venders. We wound our way through the hustle and bustle and arrived at Parque Kennedy. This was a beautifully floral park filled with lounging cats, ancient trees, and street artists hawking their goods while surrounded by rumbling motorways.
The churches were elegantly decorated but closed. We continued up the main thorough ways until we reached Huaca Pucllana. This was a slightly unimpressive huge pile of rocks and bricks which we later found out was the remains of an ancient temple from 400 AD. It did take up 8 city blocks in the middle of a residential neighborhood. We hurried back to our hotel for our PRIVATE one on one city tour.
Edwin a smartly dressed Peruvian in his mid 20s met us smiling and we jumped into our own vehicle to set out around the city. We cruised around our previously mention stomping grounds at first but then set off for Lima’s city center. The whole ride Edwin pointed out beautiful colonial and modern buildings. We disembarked at the presidential palace and arrived at the Basílica de San Francisco de Lima. Now I will admit I am not much of a church tour fan but this was jaw dropping. This “church” used to house 500 priests. The shear ornate decor was interesting but then to see how this antique building had survived earthquakes, fires, and plundering was impressive. The had attempted to restore several portions of the complex but everywhere they removed white paint they came across covered murals. So throughout the building there were patches of mural indiscriminately spaced over the white walls. The entire inner building used cedar wood. Then there was the catacombs. Emily’s favorite part. We walk hunched over through musty tunnels lined with bones and skulls. We explored the underbelly of the church staring a human remains arranged in geometric patterns occasionally passing under a grate were we could look up into the pews of the cathedral above us. And, the church IS STILL ACTIVE!! People go to mass barely above a massive 25,000 person crypt! Our guide was awesome, touching everything and showing us secret places too. From there we went to the most beautiful museum, Museo Larco.
A wealthy farmer turned collector/archeologist who turned his mansion into one of the worlds premier museums. Our one on one guide took us through the museum room by room and gave us a spectacular history. Finally we returned to our hotel and set out for dinner. To our dismay, it was national Election Day = la ley seca (the dry law), no booze to be sold or consumed all day! It was with heavy livers that we enjoyed a nice Peruvian dinner of potatoes, carne, and rice. We sampled some ceviche but we concluded that Columbia still holds the title. After a 14 hour we have returned to rest up for tomorrow’s adventure. Stay tuned.
A wealthy farmer turned collector/archeologist who turned his mansion into one of the worlds premier museums. Our one on one guide took us through the museum room by room and gave us a spectacular history. Finally we returned to our hotel and set out for dinner. To our dismay, it was national Election Day = la ley seca (the dry law), no booze to be sold or consumed all day! It was with heavy livers that we enjoyed a nice Peruvian dinner of potatoes, carne, and rice. We sampled some ceviche but we concluded that Columbia still holds the title. After a 14 hour we have returned to rest up for tomorrow’s adventure. Stay tuned.
1 comment:
This is wonderful, Nick, and made me feel as though I were right there behind you and Emily! I WILL stayed tuned! Enjoy every moment.
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