Thursday, April 6, 2023

New beginnings










After yesterday’s fiasco we stayed up late to re-organize our trip midway through. We now have flights home and moved hotels. We even found some exciting activities. The day started like any other with a massive breakfast and packing. We bid our great hotel goodbye and boarded a van for the floating villages of Tonlé Sap. It was an hour drive, with Frank, our new and very talkative tour guide. We arrived at the boat launch in the sweltering mid morning and boarded our own little skiff that took us leisurely down river to the Great Lake of Cambodia (and largest freshwater lake in Asia).   The water was a muddy brown color and plastics and trash lined the waterway.  This was the LOW season as the rivers and lake shrink by 600%. If I had to guess, the middle of the river we were cruising on could not have been more than 6 feet deep. All manner of boats were traversing the river, fast skiffs, large haulers, and tourist double deckers. The shipping lanes were as tight as the crazy motorways in downtown. The surrounding houses and shacks were all on 10 foot stilts and all looked worse for wear. There were children swimming and bathing in the same water where others were cast netting.  As the sun rose I found myself envying those swimming or standing in the dirty waterway, at least they were cool.  Down the river we cruised, with our shirts sticking to our backs and sweat dripping off our brows. But the scene was invigorating. Finally we rounded the last bend and came upon the lake with its many floating houses, schools, churches, and restaurants.  Our boat pulled up to one such… house/restaurant/shop/crocodile pit. Yep! There were crocodiles in a cage on the floating building. In keeping with the theme of we-try-anything-once, we each sampled a boiled crocodile egg, not my favorite but not terrible either.   No yolk, and the white was slightly grainy. We chatted up the locals for a bit then boarded our skiff and headed back. On the way there was a herd of water buffalos meandering towards the river to cool off.   We actually got stuck in the mud twice! But we arrived at midday to the exit docks and swam our way through the hot humidity to our nice air conditioned van. From there we drove to an artisans workshop where we watched various students making stone and wooden carvings, forming silk tapestries, and molding silver pieces. It was very impressive (though funny how every country we travel to has the same experience).  As the suffocating heat reached its pinnacle we arrived at our new hotel and we were very impressed.  It boasts a 2200 square foot pool, eco friendly bungalows, and an in-the-jungle vibe with lush greenery throughout the compound. Once we settled into our room (complete with outdoor shower and tub) we were poolside chatting up guests, sipping Prosecco, and having a traditional Cambodian lunch (which was AMAZING!). Hours rolled by in perfect bliss then the adventure itch struck so we set out to check out the botanical Gardens. For those of you that don’t know, Emily has acquired a passion for plants and she was in heaven. She galloped around the giant landscape calling out plant names while being awestruck at how large they were..  (I know little about plants). We even happened across 2 full sized ostriches, 2 monkeys, and 15 peacocks (including an albino). It was a surreal experience. Finally our next adventure took us to the Hero Rats of Cambodia.  We visited APOPO, an NGO that trains rats to sniff out land mines and other ordinances. Then they are cleared. Over the past few years they have cleared 5,000 mines, and 50,000 ordinances. We even got to meet the rats and watch a demonstration.  Soooo cool! We ended the night at a fabulous restaurant with a Cambodian-French fusion tasting menu. It. Knocked. Our. Socks. Off.  So many great experiences today. I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings!

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