Dead Spa Day and Candles

Today’s objective: relaxation. Last night we arrived in the Dead Sea right at sunset and crashed hard. It was an action packed day. Emily booked us at a premier Dead Sea spa resort and it didn’t disappoint. The resort was a massive complex that was immaculately cared for with an Italian-meets-middle-eastern motif. The inside was cool with marble tiling and many water features with mosaics and the outside was a maze of infinity pools, relaxation spots, stone structures, and little side path shops. This morning we woke up to a giant middle eastern breakfast spread. Also, we are probably 2 of 16 people staying at a resort that holds 100s. There were two attendants per person here and they were all super overly eager to help. After a divine breakfast of complex spices and textures we set out exploring the compound winding our way towards the beach (the sheer lavishness of this place was impressive). We made it to the small private beach on the Dead Sea. Not the saltiest (at 33% salt!!!) but the lowest point of water on earth. The mud was thick and rich on the shore and we coated ourselves with it and let the sun bake it into our pores.  Then we waded out into the mysterious waters. Through the water I could see that we were walking on pure salt outcroppings. Then when I tried to lay down struggled because I was super buoyant.  I could lift all of my limbs completely out of the water and still float without effort it was insane. I even went so far as to taste the water and almost gagged at how salty it was. I could feel the sea trying to turn me into a raisin as we floated staring out across at Israel.   The cool shower felt nice under the hot sun and washing away all of the saltiness. 

Next we enjoyed the various pools and lounging around poolside before going to the spa. The views of the sea reaching towards the mountains of Israel were tremendous.  Prior to picking this place Emily found out it was rated as the best spa in Jordan and since we scheduled massages we got the run of the place.  We were warmly welcomed at a serine entrance and given a tour through the sanctuary-like space complete with hydro/massage pools, infinity pools, saunas, a Dead Sea pool, and iconic places to relax overlooking the Dead Sea. What was even crazier was that we were the only ones in the giant spa complex and we were being waited on hand and foot.  So we enjoyed relaxing by the pool reading with the hot winds blowing on us from across the Dead Sea. It was surreal.  Next we had scheduled massages and a mud wrap, again, we were the only ones so we received royal treatment. I even had an attendant following me around in the bathroom. I’ve never been slathered in mud before but I must say I am now a fan. 

After such a relaxing day we packed up and caught a 3 hour Uber to Petra. This was the most harrowing portion of our trip so far. The driver didn’t speak a word of English and drove like the apocalypse was chasing us. With peddle to the metal, AC blasting, we wound our way through the harsh 107°F desert. We initially climbed slowly out from the Dead Sea but eventually we hit the craggy mountains. They were very reminiscent of Zion. Red rock formations jutting out everywhere and we continued our breakneck pace curving around goat trail like roads never knowing if there was an approaching car around the next bend or whether we would just skid off the mountain completely. Emily slept like a rock as I white knuckled the whole way. At one point the car started to over heat and our driver tried desperately to explain the situation to his two non-Arabic speaking passengers which ended in utter failure. But through the use of sign language we turned off the AC and crept the rest of the way over the desert mountains. Meanwhile I was running through dying in the desert scenarios in my head. Talk about steep; the grades on some of those hills must have been >25%!! But we made it in one piece, barely.  The reason for leaving the bosom of the spa was to hopefully see Petra at night lit up by candles.  We made it with an hour to spare. After changing my shorts we walked over to the entrance and started our climb. We were hoping to be the only ones by there was a crowd. We raced the 2 miles to the famous Petra Treasury and sat with a bunch of people listening to a flute player.  I convenced Emily to head back early with me and we got to enjoy ALL of Petra by ourselves, at night, lit by candles.  It was one of the more picturesque moment of my life. The photos simply didn’t do it justice. We ambled through a large and secluded rift in the tundra. The stone was smooth and had deep red hues. Above us was the night sky, filled with stars. It was magical.  After we picked our jaws off the ground we made it for a late night roof to dinner of middle eastern bbq. What a day!!