When In Rome…

We almost did it. Siphoning off some of the Eck’s karma we nearly had a flawless flight to Italy. We arrived without delays or cancellations, the flights were comfortable, but our wine cases did not arrive… luckily our main bags did. Abandoning them to the fates (our collaborators) we drove through the city at night wrapping around the lit up Colosseum, under beautiful Mediterranean pines, and weaved through the throngs of dinner seeking pedestrians. Our hotel was quaint and in a narrow Italian street lined with cafes and outdoor restaurants. After a much appreciated shower we meandered to the nearest outdoor restaurant and sat on the sidewalk under a canvas of lights and plants. The air was warm and welcoming and our waiter was a character, winking and smiling as he touted the evening’s delicacies.  We feasted on fresh buffalo mozzarella, silky prosciutto, and various pastas shared around the table.  All of this while sipping on an earthy Sangiovese wine.  The evening was made all the better when Mary Jo went to offer up a gnocchi and in a skillful accident dropped it right into my wine glass. Wr all laughed loudly, scaring the neighboring tables. Swaying slightly from the amazing wine and also from the long travel we returned to our hotel for the night. 

After a deep night of sleep following 24 hours of travel we awoke to a rooftop breakfast under a warm summer rain overlooking the city. Sipping on cappuccinos and munching on warm croissants we planned the day. Our task for the day was to tour the Vatican museums, Sistine chapel, and St. Peter’s basilica.  Unfortunately the pope decided to use it in the morning thus tossing a holy wrench in our plans. Regardless, we met up with our hilariously flamboyant Italian driver who took us to the Vatican. As we drove past a line of people that was miles long, he laughed and told us how lucky we were that we had fast line tickets and a guide. 

We met Christina, our Vatican guide, who was amazing!! A beautifully short Italian woman who knew all the right spots to stand and how to cut across large crowds. She was knowledgeable and entertaining.  In the hot weather we crawled from magnificent rooms to even more opulent corridors. The ancient art and marble carvings inundated us at each turn.  Walking where famous artists and historical figures once roamed left us feeling inspired as we toured the popes’ private offices painted by Rafael and stood under Michelangelo’s depiction of genesis in the Sistine Chapel.  Through the smells of sweaty tourists we could catch wafts of ancient plaster and paints. Even the floors were ornately designed and demonstrated the wear of centuries of millions of visitors.  It was surreal. The detail and durability of these massive works of art were hard to comprehend. After a mind bending and neck straining stent in the chapel we finally made our way out of the Vatican. It was midday, hot, and we had walked for miles. We bid adieu to Christina and headed off for a midafternoon lunch along a square surrounding eloquent fountains.  We sipped chilled Pinot Grigio, enjoyed flavorful pasta, and capped our little siesta with some coffee before setting out on a long stroll of the city.

Our first stop was the Pantheon. This is the largest unreinforced cement dome in the world. We just happened upon it while searching for gelato. We waited in line for access and nearly missed getting in as they cut off the line right in front of us to make way for a Saturday mass. I sweet talked the guard into letting just 4 more in and we were the last ones to have access to the giant relic. Emily and her parents enjoyed gelato while we waited in the sun.  The inside of the pantheon was impressive. Massive and ancient columns and the dome did not disappoint. The magnificence of roman architecture at its finest. 

After we left the pantheon we walked towards St. Peter’s basilica, now this was truly jaw dropping. After waiting in a line that wrapped around the impressive St. Peter’s square where the pope does mass with a giant Egyptian obelisk in the center, we entered the church of all churches. Every square inch of this place radiated power, wealth, and opulence. Gargantuan pillars held up heavily ornate fresco ceilings, and lined massive alters. It was by far one of the most impressive man made places I’ve ever visited. There was a small sermon at the head of the church with a choir echoing throughout the cavernous corridors while tourists meandered amongst gold ladened alters and huge marbles statues.  It. Was. Too. Much.  Dazed, we wondered out and fell into a taxi back to our hotel. Delirious with exhaustion we napped until our 10 pm dinner. 

Tonight we dined at a Michelin recognized restaurant and enjoyed some of Italy’s best wines while we slurped down pasta and seafood.  The dinner ran late into the evening with laughing and toasting to the good life. Finally we returned to our hotel to crash. Day 1 complete.