Peaking at the Dolomites

Our fourth day of hiking the Dolomites brought us to the renowned Three Peaks, or Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Known for their impressive triple towers and breathtaking vistas, these peaks were set to be the highlight of our trek. Ironically, despite having great weather for most of our hiking thus far, this particular leg was shrouded in clouds, intermittently obscuring the peaks for the entirety of our hike. This was a bit of a bummer but the views of all the surrounding monoliths were incredible. 

We set out with excitement, eager to experience the famed Three Peaks. The trail led us through rugged beauty, with jagged rock formations and sweeping valleys with lush meadows. Despite the persistent cloud cover, the scenery was nothing short of spectacular. The clouds, while obscuring the peaks, added a mysterious and magical quality to the landscape, making it seem otherworldly.

As we hiked, the 360° vistas unfolded around us, each turn revealing a new and awe-inspiring panorama. Even without the clear sight of the peaks, the dizzying cliffs and expansive views of the surrounding Dolomites were mind-boggling. My camera struggled to capture the sheer scale and beauty of the scene.

About halfway through our hike, we took a well-deserved break for lunch. We had come across a Bavarian hut that prepared a huge charcuterie tray, laden with an assortment of cured meats, cheeses, and breads. It was a royal feast fit for the breathtaking setting, and we savored every bite. The beer wasn’t too shabby either.

Throughout the hike, Ben, the mountain goat, stood out with his remarkable stamina. He out-hiked everyone, often found yawning after a devastating up hill stretch. At each rest stop, he celebrated with a beer. A true hiker at heart.

As we continued our journey, the clouds remained, teasing us with brief glimpses of the towering peaks before quickly closing in again. While it was disappointing not to see the Three Peaks in their full glory, the hike was still a highlight of our trip. The sense of being enveloped in such a grand and ancient landscape was profound. 

As we neared the end of our hike, the clouds began to thin slightly, allowing a hint of sunlight to filter through and illuminate the trail ahead. It was a fitting end to a day filled with contrasts—frustration at the elusive peaks, awe at the magnificent vistas, and joy in the shared adventure.

Hiking back towards our resort we were greeted by a joyously screaming Bowie sprinting into her father’s arms. I don’t know how he did it but after a major hike Ben took Bowie and Pamela for a paddle boat ride and a swim in the pool. 

Emily and I stretched out in the pool a bit then enjoyed some afternoon drinks with my parents. We all convened at a pizzeria for another epic family dinner with smiles and laughter. Ben even attempted to tackle ‘das boot’ and almost finished it. We bid each other good night and headed off to bed. Tomorrow is our last hiking day and it looks like a doozy.

(Sorry I don’t have more of Pamela or Mom but they had adventures while we were hiking that I didn’t experience..😔 But it sounds like they had quite the day with a 5 star children’s playground including mini-zip line, Go Fish with Nonni, exploring Italian shops, and after running wild, little Bowie even took a nap!)

Day 3: Tough Dolomites

 Our third day hiking the Dolomites proved to be the most demanding. It was our longest with the most elevation change.  We set out early, with the morning sun casting a glow over the landscape. The initial stretch was a gradual incline through verdant meadows, creating a serene and picturesque start to the day. Enormous cows, adorned with iconic bells around their necks, lazily grazed the fields, their deep tones resonating through the crisp mountain air (listen to video). It was superbly peaceful.

As we continued, the trail led us into a steep downhill section, where the remnants of World War I began to appear here and there along the path. These historical artifacts, including old lookouts and fortifications, served as enduring testimonies to the violent history that once gripped these mountains. The juxtaposition of such poignant historical reminders with the stunning natural beauty was awe-inspiring (coolest sentence I ever wrote).

However, the true challenge of the day lay ahead. We soon encountered a section of the trail that tested our nerves. It was a narrow path skirting the edge of a sheer cliff, dropping over a thousand feet below. This treacherous part of the trail was equipped with metal cables, essential handholds that provided some semblance of security. My dad, in particular, found this portion extremely daunting. But with sheer determination and our support, he conquered his fear, gripping the cables tightly and navigating the perilous path one step at a time. He was relieved to have that section behind him. 

We hiked for seven hours that day, our legs growing increasingly weary with each passing hour. Along the way, we encountered several trail runners, their light footsteps and swift pace a stark contrast to our sluggish progress. It was both impressive and belittling. 

As the day drew to a close, the trail gradually descended towards our final destination: a picturesque lakeside resort. The sight of the shimmering water and the inviting resort was a welcome relief after the day’s grueling hike. To our delight, we spotted Mom and Emily lounging under the hot sun, drinks in hand, their relaxed demeanor a sharp contrast to our sweat-soaked and salt-covered appearance. Reuniting with them was the perfect end to a challenging day, their smiles and the serene lake offering a much-needed respite. And beers. 

We rounded out the day with some quick pool time with Bowie and a nice evening dinner. I have to admit I could barely keep my eyes open. Tomorrow is the famous hike portion. Only two more days of hiking. 

Dolomites: Recovery Hike

Our second day of hiking in the Dolomites was a welcome change of pace, featuring a shorter and easier route (our recovery hike). The excitement of the day was heightened by Emily deciding to join us, bringing her infectious enthusiasm, energy, and not-to-mention her smoking hot bod! 

The trail was relatively flat, making it an enjoyable and less strenuous journey compared to the previous day. The only significant ascent was when we crossed a ridge between two valleys. But the effort was well worth it.  

On the other side, we descended into a breathtaking valley that seemed to be straight out of ‘The Sound of Music.’ The sweeping meadows, dotted with wildflowers and framed by towering peaks, created a scene so picturesque it felt almost surreal (see photos).  

Trekking through the Dolomites was breathtaking. Majestic peaks, lush valleys, and serene lakes painted an awe-inspiring landscape. Each trail offered unique viewpoints, from rugged cliffs to vibrant alpine meadows. The crisp mountain air made every step unforgettable, a true paradise for hikers. 

  Towards the end of our hike, we came upon a delightful Bavarian creamery/cow farm nestled high in the mountains. It was the perfect spot for a lunch break. The creamery offered an array of amazing cheeses, each more delicious than the last, along with refreshing drinks and hearty mountain fare. We sat outside, savoring our meal under the sunshine while taking in the idyllic surroundings. Ben ordered a beer and made a snide remark to the waitress about the size of the beer mug to which she replied in a thick German accent, “zat is big…for Italy.” We all laughed at that. 

After lunch, we continued our leisurely hike, enjoying the gentle terrain and the serene beauty of the valley. Our path eventually ended at our hotel, which commanded a stunning view of the area. The hotel’s location is truly spectacular, offering panoramic vistas in every direction. We arrived earlier than mom and Pamela so we all took a well deserved afternoon siesta. 

The remainder of the afternoon was a blissfully lazy one. We enjoyed tea and coffees on the deck with a panoramic view. Bowie was contented with toys provided by the hotel. 

In the evening the setting sun bathed the landscape in a golden glow, casting long shadows and highlighting the dramatic contours of the Dolomites. Now this was mesmerizing. Tomorrow is our hardest hiking day, both in length and elevation changes. Wish us luck!! 

The Mighty Dolomites

My first day of hiking in the Dolomites was an unforgettable adventure with my brother and my dad. The day promised a challenge, and it certainly delivered with a demanding 3,000 feet of elevation gain over six hours of hiking. As we laced up our boots and set off, the crisp morning air was invigorating, and the stunning scenery around us set the tone for an exciting day. Our four start hotel was hard to leave but we were excited for the adventure. Emily, mom, Pamela, and Bowie stayed behind for some adventures of their own. 

The hike began with a mildly strenuous ascent, winding through lush alpine meadows dotted with wildflowers and surrounded by towering peaks. This was reminiscent of Torres del Pain in Chile. The initial climb warmed us up and allowed us to find our rhythm, as we chatted and admired the breathtaking views.

As we approached the middle section of our hike, the terrain became significantly more challenging. We had the option of an easy track with a chair lift (most went that route) or climbing the steep and jagged mountain ridge.  Ben had the best comment of the hike at this moment, “we take it easy when you retire, dad!” (an inside family joke).  It was that arduous climb that tested our endurance and resolve. Each step required careful navigation over rocky outcrops and loose scree, making this the toughest part of our journey. Despite the physical exertion, the sense of accomplishment as we reached the top was exhilarating. Standing on the ridge, we were rewarded with panoramic views of the Dolomites, their rugged beauty stretching as far as the eye could see.

After conquering the ridge, the trail gradually descended, offering a much-needed respite from the earlier intensity. The several miles of downhill hiking allowed us to relax and enjoy the serene surroundings. We even stopped by a mountain lake for a brief lunch. The path meandered through dense forests and across gentle streams, with the soft sounds of nature providing a soothing backdrop. We took our time, savoring the tranquility and reflecting on the day’s achievements.

Hiking with Ben and Dad made the experience even more special. We shared stories, encouraged each other during the tough sections, and celebrated our small victories along the way. By the time we returned to our starting point, we were tired but deeply satisfied. Ending at another resort we had victory beers and caught a ride back to our hotel. We met up with our better halves and had some fun pool time with Bowie for the rest of the afternoon. 

We closed our evening with a wholesome family dinner at a nearby restaurant. Bowie passed out on the way there and we had an entire lovely meal with her asleep in a nook at the table. Good wine, good food, and family all reaching across the table and snagging morsels off each other’s plates. We laughed and shared stories about our day. After dinner we returned for a good night of sleep before setting out tomorrow. 

Last day in Venice

After such a spectacular family dinner last night with rivers of good wine I decided to torture myself and arise early for a morning jog. My wife was sound asleep as I slipped out and into the warm morning air. Where the night before you could not pass on the side walk due to the masses of camera toting tourists now I had the grand canal to myself. I started slowly as I attempted to sweat out the previous night’s libations. The rolling path, due to multiple canal bridges was marvelous. Each corner I turned reveal a new tapestry of ancient buildings, marble statues, and quaint piazzas. I covered a 5K and felt revitalized with the accomplishment. 

Emily met me down in the restaurant for a coffee as the rest of the family was still sleeping. We decided to explore the oldest fish market in Italy this morning before the flood of tourists. We crossed the Ponte Rialto over a bustling canal and wound our way to the Mercato del Pesce where we observed boats coming in and out dropping off their catches and venders gutting and presenting the wide array of seafood.  It was quiet and professional. We slowly meandered around taking in the iconic market and the smells of fresh fish.  

Afterwards we returned to the hotel to meet up with the rest of the sleepy families. We all went for a stroll through the lively streets of Venice. As we wandered past timeworn buildings and picturesque canals, we indulged in some window shopping, marveling at the famous brands, charming trinkets, and classy boutiques. Our stroll led us to the oldest café in Italy, and one of the oldest in the world: Caffè Florian.  Nestled under an ancient portico in St. Mark’s Square, we sipped their world-famous hot chocolate. The rich, velvety drink was the perfect accompaniment to the live classical music that echoed beautifully across the square, creating an atmosphere of timeless elegance. 

After we enjoyed a delicious pizza lunch at a nearby trattoria, savoring the fresh, flavorful toppings and perfectly baked crust. Our adventure didn’t end there. We boarded a wooden taxi boat and glided through Venice’s canals towards the airport. 

Arriving at the airport, we picked up our rental car and set off for the Dolomites. The drive was scenic and filled with anticipation. Reaching our resort nestled in the mountains, we were greeted by breathtaking views and crisp, fresh air. The vistas here were as jaw dropping as the elegance of our hotel. 

We had a briefing with our program coordinator this evening and went over the next week’s worth of hiking. There were some concerning parts of the hike but we all felt that if we get out and started then we could walk out those jitters. It was awesome seeing mom and dad! They just conquered a cycling trip with Madison and Cassidy from Edinburgh to Verona. It sounded amazing. We had a great dinner and all crashed early in anticipation of our big hike!! Sorry for wrapping up the blog so briefly but exhaustion is setting in… stay tuned for tomorrow!! 

Venice and Family

We were so excited to get up today. Ben, Pamela, and Bowie flew in last night to join us as we gear up for the Dolomites hike. Emily and I bounded out of our comfortable bed and obtained outdoor seats at our hotel’s restaurant. Our table sat directly in front of Ponte di Rialto, a famous and auspicious bridge spanning the grand canal. The morning silence was broken only by early

morning delivery boats and strong Italians wheeling enormous carts of supplies into the various hotels and restaurants. 

Then we saw the San Francisco Rosenfelds! Bowie bounded up to us in a cute little sun dress grinning ear to ear with her well rested parents in tow. After little Bowie piled a plate high with her favorite foods; eggs, chocolate croissants, mozzarella cheese, and bread we relaxed in our chair and watched this seemingly petite child eat an army’s worth of breakfast. We all continued sitting around sipping coffees, swapping stories, and playing games with Bowie as the morning stretched on. Finally, after we had our fill we set out to explore Venice. 

Exploring Venice with my young niece Bowie a was a fun experience. The day began with the bustling streets of Venice, where Bowie’s wide-eyed wonder added to our adventure. As we meandered through the narrow alleys and across ancient bridges, we admired the unique charm of Venetian architecture. Bowie pointing out all the flowers, and high windows along the way. 

We wandered through the vibrant streets, peering into shop windows adorned with exquisite Venetian glass and elaborate masks. Each store seemed like a treasure trove, captivating Bowie’s curiosity as she marveled at the intricate designs and took cute little pictures with her personal pink camera. 

The highlight of our day was a gondola ride through the picturesque canals. Our gondolier, a charismatic local, entertained us with fun facts while we sipped on crisp Prosecco. The gentle swaying of the gondola and the serene waters of Venice created a mesmerizing atmosphere. Bowie’s giggles filled the air as she pointed at the passing boats and the multitude of bridges we glided under.  

Our LONG exploration led us to a charming park where Bowie could play and stretch her legs. Especially after her uncle carried her through the sweltering matrix of small streets! It was a perfect respite from the bustling city.

We then enjoyed a light lunch on the waterfront, indulging in fresh seafood and pasta while soaking in the breathtaking views of the lagoon. The gentle breeze and the sparkling water made for a serene dining experience.

As the afternoon approached, we took the public water bus back to our hotel. The gentle rocking of the boat lulled Bowie into a peaceful semi-awake state, and we all felt the need for a siesta after our eventful morning. We parted briefly to recuperate until the arrival of the Hogans.  

The Hogans didn’t disappoint. After a relaxing midday siesta we awoke to a text that the Hogan clan had landed. We met them on the grand canal buying pizza and Prosecco.  They had already recon’d the hotel and located the perfect panoramic balcony to relax and sip Prosecco. The families collided in happy embraces and toasted to good times and even better adventures. Under a glaring sun we all relaxed on the hotel balcony overlooking the Grand Canal.

That evening our large joint family gathered for a memorable dinner at a cozy Italian restaurant in Venice. The ambiance was warm and inviting, setting the perfect stage for an evening of laughter and conversation. I had carefully selected some amazing red wines (2016 Brunello), showing off a bit of my wine prowess.  We began with delectable appetizers: creamy burrata paired with savory prosciutto, tender octopus, and succulent scallops, each dish more delicious than the last. As we savored these treats, our conversations flowed effortlessly, touching on family memories, the latest updates about the kids, and our hopes for the future. The main course featured a variety of rich pasta dishes. The evening was a beautiful blend of great food, fine wine, and the best company, making it a night to remember.

Following dinner we sauntered back towards our hotel stopping briefly for some gelato. I have not seen a happier face then that if Bowie with her OWN ice cream, double scoop cone.  We laughed and ribbed each other all the way back to the hotel.

Our adventure in Venice was a beautiful blend of discovery, joy, and cherished family moments not soon forgotten.