Italy Round 2 (travel and Bologna)

 Travel Day 1

We are getting much better and more efficient at this international traveling. Our bags were packed and all our home care was wrapped up early this morning. We said our long goodbyes to our two mournful pups and left under a bright solstice morning. We taxied direct to the airport and walked straight through security and onto the plane (upgraded to first class because no one flies that early). After a brief layover in Seattle where we watched the final steamy episodes of Bridgerton in the British Airways lounge we hopped on our transatlantic flight and settled in for some sleep and more movies. The flight was uneventful and our passage through Heathrow has now become second nature. Uniquely, we’ve started to recognize the British Airways employees, security personnel, and lounge attendants.  Though, let it be known that all of our British Airways flights were delayed. The Rosenfeld travel luck remains firmly in place. We landed in sweltering (78°) Venice a lot closer to our train departure then I would have preferred but we made our way to the train and encouraged each other to stay awake for the last leg of our trip. Finally, after planes, trains, and automobiles  and an exhausting 23 straight hours of travel we crawled into our hotel room. The plan was a little room service then crash early. Sorry dear readers but day 1 was a boring travel day but we were excited for the adventures to start tomorrow. 

Day 2

That was one of the best nights of sleep I can remember having. Both Emily and I slept for 11 hours. We awoke to a quiet city in the midst of a light rain.  For such a popular city it was sparsely occupied. We learned that the university was out, it was a holiday weekend, and the rain drove people indoors.  This left the city wide open to us. We had dinner plans tonight at a Michelin star restaurant that is 30km outside of the city so we rented a car this morning in order to get there and back as it is not available by taxi or Uber. 

We started our day by meeting our amazing Italian tour guide Nathalie. She was young and full of energy. Exploring Bologna with Nathalie was an unforgettable experience. For five hours, we wandered through the city’s enchanting porticos, majestic churches, and narrow, winding streets, each turn revealing a piece of Bologna’s rich history.

Nathalie brought the city’s past to life, detailing Bologna’s reputation as a liberal hub, only to be repeatedly suppressed by the Catholic Church and later by Napoleon. She described its part in WWII, and the Jewish ghetto. Her stories painted a vivid picture of a resilient city that has weathered many storms yet remains a vibrant cultural epicenter.

Among the practical lessons Nathalie imparted was the Italian coffee etiquette: never drink cappuccinos in the afternoon! This was just one of the many cultural nuances she shared. We also learned that tortellini, the beloved pasta of the region, is traditionally served in broth, not with ragú as one might expect.  

Our culinary education continued as Nathalie expertly guided us through the differences in prosciuttos, explaining the subtleties that distinguish a Prosciutto di Parma from its counterparts. She also recounted the fascinating history of Parmigiano Reggiano, emphasizing its deep roots and significance in the region. Tasting these delicacies with her insights added a new depth to the flavors.

As we walked, the city’s porticos offered protection from the rain and historical context. These architectural marvels, stretching for miles, are a UNESCO World Heritage site and a testament to Bologna’s unique character. One of the more rare frescos in world is a portrait of a pregnant Virgin Mary. Emily loved this. The churches, each with their own story and architectural splendor, stood as monuments to the city’s complex history. One cute moment in particular was when she was describing when the city was digging around a church and found many ancient bodies stacked on top of one another, “you know, like a skeleton lasagna!” She reported casually. 

Midday, we took a delightful break for lunch at a charming side street café. The backdrop was quintessentially Italian: hanging legs of prosciutto, wheels of cheese, and cases brimming with fresh handmade pastas. The atmosphere was a feast for the senses, and the food did not disappoint.  We indulged in a beautiful board of various meats and cheeses, each bite bursting with flavor. Sampling the traditional tortellini in broth was a revelation, its delicate taste found to be more prominent in broth than hidden behind a tomato sauce. The tagliatelle in ragú was equally exquisite, perfectly capturing Bologna’s rich gastronomic mastery. 

Our tour with Nathalie included a captivating visit to the University of Bologna’s medical museum. She guided us through a fascinating wing dedicated to obstetrics, showcasing an array of didactic models made from clay, wax, and paper used to train midwives. The meticulous detail in these historical teaching aids was astounding, one could see the subtle signs that these pieces were practically used for teaching centuries ago!

Emily, was particularly enthralled by the display of old surgical tools, marveling at the evolution of medical practices over the centuries.  Nathalie’s explanations brought these artifacts to life, highlighting the university’s significant contributions to the field of obstetrics. 

Sadly we said goodbye to Nathalie who gave us her cell number to call for any reason! On our way back for a traditional Italian siesta we grabbed a quick gelato on the main thoroughfare. 

At the end of the day we took a harrowing drive to what we thought would be a spectacular restaurant FAR outside the city. Emily drove as she is the perpetual designated driver. We both couldn’t believe the sheer volume of roundabouts in Italy. They are nearly as common as highway exits. But after nearly an hour of driving through picturesque hillsides with villas at each turn we arrived. Long story short, the food was….ok. Slightly disappointed we returned to our Victorian hotel for another night of great slumber. Can’t wait for tomorrow. We head back to Venice…