Portugal Adventure — Day 2: A Royal Recovery in Lisbon filled with Castles and good food!

Well, even the most seasoned traveler has her limits, and after a 24-hour journey, our tiny globe-trotter finally hit hers. We arrived late last night at our stunning hotel, the Corinthia Lisbon, certain that Joni would collapse into blissful slumber the moment we set her down. Oh, the naiveté of first-time parents… Instead, she channeled her inner night demon, refusing to sleep and then waking every hour, on the hour, in heart-wrenching tears. After some heroic late-night snuggles, the entire Rosenfeld expedition finally surrendered to sleep around 3 a.m.

There went our morning plans… We canceled them without hesitation. The only thing on the itinerary was recovery, and after a glorious, slow morning of rest, the world felt right again. By midday we set off into the city for a quick jaunt through a leafy in er city garden that surrounded the modern art museum. There, beneath the shade of trees, we sipped rich espressos and watched Joni delight in the world, her wide eyes tracing flowers and the soft hum of the city. 

Refreshed and recharged, our afternoon adventure led us upward, quite literally, to Castelo de Sāo Jorge, the ancient Moorish fortress that sits atop Lisbon’s highest hill. The climb wound through storybook streets so narrow that the tram tracks nearly brushed the café tables.  The air was filled with the scent of grilled sardines and orange blossoms, and every turn revealed another breathtaking view of terracotta rooftops cascading like a waterfall toward the sparkling Tagus River.

At the castle’s summit, the city unfolded before us like a web of domes, bridges, and pastel houses clinging to the hillsides.  Joni squealed with delight at the pigeons and massive peacocks roaming the ancient ramparts while we soaked in the panorama that once guarded a kingdom.      

As the sticky heat of evening settled over the city, we made our way back to the Corinthia to tuck Joni in for the night. I had arranged a babysitter through the hotel, a lovely young woman named Inês, whose calm demeanor instantly put us at ease. Yes, we are those parents: leaving our little one with a stranger in a foreign city. But Inês was wonderful, and we knew Joni was in good hands (in fact, she’ll be watching her again when we return to Lisbon for our final date night).

With that reassurance, Emily and I slipped out for an evening we won’t soon forget; dinner at CURA, one of Lisbon’s famous Michelin-starred restaurants. I’ll save the full story for a separate post, because it truly deserves its own spotlight, but suffice it to say it was the best meal we’ve had yet.  Eleven exquisite courses unfolded like a symphony, each bite composed with precision, every flavor harmonizing with the next. The service was flawless, a graceful dance of timing and attention, paired with wines so thoughtfully chosen that each sip felt like a continuation of the dish before it. 

By the end, we were so enchanted that we couldn’t help but gush to the staff. Our enthusiasm earned us a special invitation, a visit to the kitchen, where we met the chef herself and took a photo together in front of the entire restaurant (a little embarrassing), grinning like kids at Disneyland. 

When we returned, Joni was just stirring, having slept soundly the whole time, no sign of the nocturnal chaos from the night before. The rest of the night had a few more late night wake ups but Joni is quickly adapting. 

Not a bad way to spend a day we almost slept through.