Return to Venice

Another great night of sleep. As the sun began to rise, I awoke quietly, laced up my running shoes, and set out to explore. The streets were blissfully empty, and the city felt like it was mine alone.

I started by jogging the border of the city lined by the twelve ancient city gates. I made it half way around visiting six of them. Each gate, steeped in history, stood as a testament to Bologna’s storied past, much of which I learned as part of my fraternity’s (Kappa Sigma) past. The gates, once crucial for defense, now serve as unique landmarks, encompassing the city. 

Running under the iconic porticos was a fun experience. These were covered walkways that stretched for miles throughout the city. They provided an iconic backdrop to my run. 

I passed four of the city’s famous towers, including the iconic Two Towers, Asinelli and Garisenda. These towering structures, remnants of medieval Bologna, as Nathalie explained yesterday.

The quiet streets, usually bustling with activity, allowed me to appreciate Bologna’s architecture and charm in a new light. The solitude and tranquility of the morning made it a truly special experience, one that I’ll treasure as a highlight of my visit to Bologna. Again, slowly becoming my favorite city. 

We checked out and hopped on the train back to Venice. It was much more enjoyable without the previous exhaustion. Arriving at the Venice train station was memorable. Normally we have a company arrange our travels but this trip we are on our own so we found the ‘Water Bus’, public transportation to our hotel. It was surprisingly easy and we enjoyed the rocky trip down the Grand Canal to our hotel. 

Today we had a private excursion to Murano to explore the world of Venetian glassmaking. Emily and I were treated to an exclusive tour that began with an awe-inspiring glass-blowing demonstration. We met master glass blowers and enjoyed beverages on couches in front of massive hearths radiating heat while the artists toiled making a huge and intricate glass plate.   Watching the master glass blowers skillfully shape the molten glass into intricate forms was mesmerizing, showcasing their incredible talents and precision. 

After the demonstration, we toured the gallery, where we fond over stunning glass creations ranging from delicate vases to elaborate chandeliers.

 

Next we sauntered around Murano, exploring numerous glass shops, each offering unique and beautiful glassware. We had a tour guide with us, Giulia, who shared the history of Murano and glassmaking. It was rich and fascinating. Tired, we returned to our hotel for a short siesta. 

We went to an all star dinner tonight… Nestled in a quaint and picturesque hidden courtyard, La Colombina delivered a dining experience that was nothing short of enchanting. This Michelin star gem in the heart of Venice was a sanctuary for lovers of fine cuisine, such as ourselves, where the ambiance was as memorable as the food. The restaurant's deeply romantic atmosphere, complemented by the intimate setting, set the stage for an unforgettable evening.

From the moment we arrived, the service was impeccable. The knowledgeable staff guided us through our dining journey with grace and expertise, ensuring every detail was perfect. Their passion for excellence was evident in every interaction, enhancing the overall experience.

We indulged in the seafood tasting menu, which was a masterclass in culinary artistry. Each course was a gustatory blend of flavors and textures, showcasing the freshest ingredients and innovative techniques. The scallop au gratin, seasoned with Sicilian oranges, and served in a clam shell was a delightful start. The traditional black squid ink rice, paired with red prawns adorned with 24k gold leaf, was both visually stunning and bursting with rich, umami flavors. 

The sautéd crab with rosemary gnocchi was a standout, offering a comforting yet sophisticated dish that highlighted the natural sweetness of the crab. The sea bass, artfully dressed in zucchini scales, was a testament to the chef's skill, each bite tender and flavorful.  We concluded our meal with a deconstructed tiramisu, a playful and exquisite interpretation of the classic dessert that left us craving more. 

This dining experience was a testament to the culinary excellence of a Michelin star well deserved.   La Colombina, is a must-visit destination for anyone seeking a truly romantic and unforgettable evening.

Wow, what a day! Can’t wait for tomorrow with family. 

Italy Round 2 (travel and Bologna)

 Travel Day 1

We are getting much better and more efficient at this international traveling. Our bags were packed and all our home care was wrapped up early this morning. We said our long goodbyes to our two mournful pups and left under a bright solstice morning. We taxied direct to the airport and walked straight through security and onto the plane (upgraded to first class because no one flies that early). After a brief layover in Seattle where we watched the final steamy episodes of Bridgerton in the British Airways lounge we hopped on our transatlantic flight and settled in for some sleep and more movies. The flight was uneventful and our passage through Heathrow has now become second nature. Uniquely, we’ve started to recognize the British Airways employees, security personnel, and lounge attendants.  Though, let it be known that all of our British Airways flights were delayed. The Rosenfeld travel luck remains firmly in place. We landed in sweltering (78°) Venice a lot closer to our train departure then I would have preferred but we made our way to the train and encouraged each other to stay awake for the last leg of our trip. Finally, after planes, trains, and automobiles  and an exhausting 23 straight hours of travel we crawled into our hotel room. The plan was a little room service then crash early. Sorry dear readers but day 1 was a boring travel day but we were excited for the adventures to start tomorrow. 

Day 2

That was one of the best nights of sleep I can remember having. Both Emily and I slept for 11 hours. We awoke to a quiet city in the midst of a light rain.  For such a popular city it was sparsely occupied. We learned that the university was out, it was a holiday weekend, and the rain drove people indoors.  This left the city wide open to us. We had dinner plans tonight at a Michelin star restaurant that is 30km outside of the city so we rented a car this morning in order to get there and back as it is not available by taxi or Uber. 

We started our day by meeting our amazing Italian tour guide Nathalie. She was young and full of energy. Exploring Bologna with Nathalie was an unforgettable experience. For five hours, we wandered through the city’s enchanting porticos, majestic churches, and narrow, winding streets, each turn revealing a piece of Bologna’s rich history.

Nathalie brought the city’s past to life, detailing Bologna’s reputation as a liberal hub, only to be repeatedly suppressed by the Catholic Church and later by Napoleon. She described its part in WWII, and the Jewish ghetto. Her stories painted a vivid picture of a resilient city that has weathered many storms yet remains a vibrant cultural epicenter.

Among the practical lessons Nathalie imparted was the Italian coffee etiquette: never drink cappuccinos in the afternoon! This was just one of the many cultural nuances she shared. We also learned that tortellini, the beloved pasta of the region, is traditionally served in broth, not with ragú as one might expect.  

Our culinary education continued as Nathalie expertly guided us through the differences in prosciuttos, explaining the subtleties that distinguish a Prosciutto di Parma from its counterparts. She also recounted the fascinating history of Parmigiano Reggiano, emphasizing its deep roots and significance in the region. Tasting these delicacies with her insights added a new depth to the flavors.

As we walked, the city’s porticos offered protection from the rain and historical context. These architectural marvels, stretching for miles, are a UNESCO World Heritage site and a testament to Bologna’s unique character. One of the more rare frescos in world is a portrait of a pregnant Virgin Mary. Emily loved this. The churches, each with their own story and architectural splendor, stood as monuments to the city’s complex history. One cute moment in particular was when she was describing when the city was digging around a church and found many ancient bodies stacked on top of one another, “you know, like a skeleton lasagna!” She reported casually. 

Midday, we took a delightful break for lunch at a charming side street café. The backdrop was quintessentially Italian: hanging legs of prosciutto, wheels of cheese, and cases brimming with fresh handmade pastas. The atmosphere was a feast for the senses, and the food did not disappoint.  We indulged in a beautiful board of various meats and cheeses, each bite bursting with flavor. Sampling the traditional tortellini in broth was a revelation, its delicate taste found to be more prominent in broth than hidden behind a tomato sauce. The tagliatelle in ragú was equally exquisite, perfectly capturing Bologna’s rich gastronomic mastery. 

Our tour with Nathalie included a captivating visit to the University of Bologna’s medical museum. She guided us through a fascinating wing dedicated to obstetrics, showcasing an array of didactic models made from clay, wax, and paper used to train midwives. The meticulous detail in these historical teaching aids was astounding, one could see the subtle signs that these pieces were practically used for teaching centuries ago!

Emily, was particularly enthralled by the display of old surgical tools, marveling at the evolution of medical practices over the centuries.  Nathalie’s explanations brought these artifacts to life, highlighting the university’s significant contributions to the field of obstetrics. 

Sadly we said goodbye to Nathalie who gave us her cell number to call for any reason! On our way back for a traditional Italian siesta we grabbed a quick gelato on the main thoroughfare. 

At the end of the day we took a harrowing drive to what we thought would be a spectacular restaurant FAR outside the city. Emily drove as she is the perpetual designated driver. We both couldn’t believe the sheer volume of roundabouts in Italy. They are nearly as common as highway exits. But after nearly an hour of driving through picturesque hillsides with villas at each turn we arrived. Long story short, the food was….ok. Slightly disappointed we returned to our Victorian hotel for another night of great slumber. Can’t wait for tomorrow. We head back to Venice…

Last day in Greece

I started off the day with a ‘scouting run’ where I explored the giant parks and the Panathenaic stadium. I wasn’t able to enter but set myself up to run there tomorrow. 

Today Athens was a rollercoaster of experiences, there was perfect weather and then our worst tour encounter yet.

Our tour began with a promising itinerary: the Panathenaic Stadium, Zeus’s Temple, the Acropolis Museum, and the highlight, the majestic Pantheon. However, our excitement waned as we were herded onto a giant bus with a group of 30 people, representing three different languages. The cacophony of translations and the unenthusiastic guide made it difficult to fully enjoy the experience. 

Long lines greeted us at every stop, exacerbated by the inefficiency of the tour organization. To add insult to injury, the audio equipment provided was of poor quality, rendering the guide's explanations barely audible.

Despite these setbacks, the sights themselves were breathtaking. Perched majestically atop the Acropolis plateau in Athens, the Pantheon stood as a testament to ancient Greek ingenuity and architectural brilliance. As we entered the Pantheon Museum, we were immediately captivated by the aura of grandeur and history that enveloped us.  

The museum's carefully curated collection showcased artifacts and relics dating back thousands of years. From intricately carved sculptures to meticulously preserved artifacts, each exhibit served an homage to an incredible civilization.

But it was when we stepped outside onto the expansive terrace that the true magnificence of the Pantheon revealed itself.  With sweeping views of the city below and the massive columns towered above us, we stood awestruck.  

Frustrated by the tour's shortcomings, we made the decision to break away and explore the city on our own. Venturing into the lively flea markets, we indulged in the bustling atmosphere, and brushed aside eager venders. 

Lunch was a delightful affair, as we savored traditional Greek cuisine in a quaint taverna, sipping on local beer we had a refreshing meal.  And what better way to cap off our meal than with creamy pistachio ice cream, a sweet treat to combat the afternoon heat. 

Despite the challenges, it was a day filled with unforgettable memories and a renewed appreciation for the beauty and resilience of this ancient metropolis. 

 

*The next morning I arose early and went for a run. I ran directly to the Panathenaic stadium and was granted access to run the track within! I had the whole stadium to myself as the sun crept over the horizon. I ran laps all morning. Then I explored the little museum and saw all the Olympic torches from 1934!! What a cool experience. 

Mykonos Joy

I am combining two days as yesterday was a relaxing and relatively uneventful day. It was also our worst weather day. Grey cool sky’s and crazy wind blanketed the village.  We slept late and eventually roused ourselves from bed as the sun peaked out and explored the small village.  At lunch we saddled up to a small cafe and sampled moussaka and spanakopita. We shamelessly remarked to each other that our Greek dinners were of substantially better quality. We decided to wonder aimlessly as the layout of this iconic village appeared to be random. Narrow white streets with cute edifices adorned our trip. Their plant game was on point too.   We enjoyed peaking into various small shops and the vendors seemed glad to see us as we happened to be the first wave of the tourist season. After a considerable discussion we decided to break with tradition and return to the previous night’s restaurant and we were not disappointed. One of the best cooked duck I’ve experienced was the highlight of the evening. The staff recognized us and we were again treated like royalty. 

The next day the whipping winds finally died down and the hot sun dominated a blue sky. I woke up early for a morning run. I love Moro g runs. I was up before the whole city. Mykonos has a small (~600m) village that holds all of its points of interest. I ran all over the village. The “streets” were arm width wide, brightly painted white, and twisted and turned like a maze. I couldn’t run too fast as I couldn’t see around each corner. I ran by ancient grain windmills, along wave assaulted shores, and through historical ruins.  The sun peaked up over the Aegean Sea illuminating the armada of fishing and tourist vessels in the small port. It was a fantastic run, though very slow. 

We enjoyed a simple breakfast and then spent the remainder of the day poolside soaking up the sun.  We took that insane fast ferry again to Athens and due to delays it was a six hour slog. We were met by an overzealous guide who chatted a mile a minute dumping mountains of information on our exhausted minds. Our hotel was nice and we crashed. Can’t wait to explore Athens!!