Tokyo Day 2: Sushi, Shibuya, and Slightly Unhinged Tour Guides

After a fantastic first day in Tokyo, Joni graced us with seven uninterrupted hours of sleep. Seven! We practically woke up as different people; refreshed, optimistic, and avoiding jinxing our good fortunes. We floated up to the swanky sky-view restaurant at the top of our hotel, where we were greeted by 360-degree panoramic views of Tokyo and, shockingly, no one else. Just us, the city skyline, and a buffet of delicious breakfast options. It felt oddly like we had reserved the entire floor, or perhaps Tokyo had yet to wake up.

I decided to try a matcha latte for the first time, expecting something bitter and earthy. Instead, I found myself enraptured. Creamy, slightly sweet, and packed with an almost meditative energy, it was love at first sip. “Why haven’t I been drinking these my whole life?” I wondered. Probably because I live in Alaska, where matcha is mostly theoretical.

Then came our first real travel hiccup. Our guide, Naga, didn’t show!! He ended up being an hour late. Now, I’d love to say we handled this delay with the serene patience of seasoned travelers, but no, we were fuming. An hour in travel time is like three years in regular time with an infant. Just as we were debating whether to strike out on our own, he arrived in a flurry of bows, apologies, and what I can only describe as profound existential regret. He was devastated. And, honestly, his sincerity was so committed that we couldn’t stay mad. His penance? Offering us a free afternoon tour. A solid recovery.

First stop: a sushi-making class. We were expecting a laid-back, instructional experience, but what we got was Chef Jojo, an absolute riot.  There were only two of us in the private class, but Jojo was performing as if he were on stage at Madison Square Garden. He cheered wildly for every roll we made, clapped like a game show host, and acted like we had just mastered a sacred art rather than struggling to keep the rice from sticking to our hands.   At one point, I swear he looked genuinely misty-eyed over my sashimi placement. It was glorious. 

By the end, he handed us official sushi-making certificates (which I’m 99% sure he invented on the spot), and we sat down to feast on our creations, along with tempura and miso soup. Meanwhile, Naga redeemed himself further by entertaining us with stories of Japan’s history and culture.

Next, we ventured to the famous Shibuya Scramble Crosswalk, aka the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing.  Over 1,000-3,000 people flood the intersection from all directions every time the light turns green. Naturally, we decided this was the perfect place to take Joni for her first chaotic Tokyo jaunt. 

Nearby, we stopped at the Hachikō statue, a tribute to Japan’s most famously loyal dog. Hachikō was an Akita who waited nine years at the train station for his owner to return, after he had passed away. His story of unwavering devotion captured the hearts of the nation, and now his bronze likeness watches over Shibuya, where visitors come to pay their respects (and, in our case, take obligatory tourist photos). 

From there, we bid farewell to Naga, still apologizing profusely, and treated ourselves to street takoyaki (fried octopus balls) and bubble tea as we wandered through bustling shopping alleys.  And then we learned something that blew our minds: Tokyo has pet cafés for everything. Dogs, cats, pigs, and even otters! The idea of casually sipping a latte while an otter frolics around you is something I didn’t know I needed in life. 

To cap off our day, we made our way to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building’s observation deck, where we watched the sunset over the city with Mt. Fuji in the distance. It was the perfect, serene ending to an absolutely chaotic and wonderful day. 

Can’t wait for what’s next. Hopefully, it involves more sushi, less lateness, and possibly an otter.