Tokyo Day One: Ramen, Rituals, and a Really Windy City

After a night that can only be described as “Joni’s personal rebellion against sleep,” we somehow rallied for our first full day in Tokyo. Bleary-eyed but determined, we kicked things off with a grand breakfast buffet, where the chefs greeted us with an enthusiastic, shouted “Irasshaimase!” the moment we entered. Nothing like a synchronized Japanese welcome to shake off the sleep deprivation. Coffee was consumed in quantities that should probably require a permit, and just like that, we were ready to face the day.

Enter Tomoko, our fearless guide, who led us straight into the whirlwind that was Tokyo…  literally. The wind was out in full force, attempting to turn our stroller into a sailboat. Determined to travel like locals, we took only public transportation, including the famously clean and silent subway, where every passenger was a model citizen, politely making room for us without so much as a sigh. Joni, naturally, chose this moment to nap like a tiny, unbothered empress.

Nakamise Shopping Street: Souvenirs, Snacks, and Sensory Overload 

Our first stop was the bustling Nakamise Shopping Street, a lively and seemingly endless stretch of vendors selling everything from intricate handmade fans to kitschy keychains.  The air smelled like fresh taiyaki (warm, fish-shaped pastries stuffed with red bean paste) and sizzling street food, vendors were hawking their wears left and right. Some of the pastries looked irresistible.  

At the end of Nakamise stood the imposing Sensoji Temple, Tokyo’s oldest and most famous Buddhist temple.  Towering red gates, massive incense burners, and centuries of history surrounded us as we wandered the temple grounds. We learned about its origins, purified ourselves with incense smoke (which we were assured would improve our luck…jury’s still out), and marveled at the architecture.  Joni? Still napped like a pro.

After a morning of walking, gawking, and attempting to absorb centuries of history, we realized we were starving. We found a no-frills, stand-up ramen spot where the broth was spicy, the noodles perfectly chewy, and indoors away from the howling wind. We slurped like locals, regained our strength, and set off for our next destination.

The Meiji Jingu Shrine was a stark contrast to the lively chaos of Nakamise, set in a peaceful, man-made wooded area, it felt like stepping into another world. The entrance was marked by towering cedar torii gates, and as we strolled the wide, tree-lined paths, the noise of the city faded into a tranquil hush.  One of the shrine’s most striking features is its wall of sake barrels, beautifully stacked and colorfully decorated, donated by brewers from all over Japan in honor of the deities.  We took a moment to add our own prayers and wishes to the collection, embracing the quiet magic of the place. 

Tokyo’s Public Transit: A Solo Adventure

At this point, our guide kinda left us to navigate Tokyo’s complex transit system on our own. The experience can only be described as a mix of triumph, minor panic, and a deep admiration for Tokyo’s efficiency. Despite momentary confusion, we made it back, collapsed into a well-earned siesta, and reflected on the day.

Forcing ourselves out of a perfect slumber ranked high on my hardest-tasks-ever in order to attempt to get Joni on a sleep schedule, get some food, and seek out baby formula. We stumbled across a small Katsu restaurant and were fortunate enough to find baby formula and diapers! This was significantly aided by a patient store clerk and lots of hand gestures. We ended the night collapsing into bed hoping our temple wishes of slumber would materialize. 

Through it all, Joni was an absolute champion. She napped through subway rides, temple visits, and gusts of wind that nearly relocated us to another prefecture. When she was awake, she was all smiles, soaking in the sights with wide-eyed wonder.

Tomorrow, we do it all again, though with a sushi making class and hopefully with a little more sleep and a little less wind.